Sears KENMORE 385. 17928 manual

OWNER'S MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 17928[...]

, _ •=:= = - ....... • ............ , .... == ............. SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear CustomeP: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instruct[...]

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine. DA N G E R- ,o.uo0 the risk of electric shock: 1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from ,the electric outlet immediately after using an[...]

SECTION SECTION SECTION 1. 2. 3. TABLE OF CONTENTS KNOW THE MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avialble .............. 3 Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4 Identify the Accessories ........................ 5 PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ........................ 6_10 • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the[...]

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. I I I J Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Thread Cutter Needle Plate Hook Cover Plate Hook Cover Plate Release Button Threa[...]

Arm Cover Plate Hand Wheel Push-Pull Clutch Stitch Selector Stretch Stitch Adjuster Light and Power Switch Plug Co0nector Carrying Handle Presser Foot Lever Free Arm Drop Feed Lever Nomenclature Plate Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Foot Foot Control Snap-on Button Thread Guide Needle Clamp 11 J/ V[...]

Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush Large screw driver Small screw driver Additional spool pin > Spool pin felt Small spool holder Large spool holder Zipper foot Straight stitch foot Siiding buttonhole foot Satin stitch foot[...]

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power supply plug Power NOTE: Plug connector Machine plug J Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF. 1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110to 120 Volt AC outlet. 2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way. 3. I[...]

Set the Pressure Dial Pressure control dial Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows. 3 ..... 2 ..... 1 ..... 0 ..... most sewing applique and Cut-Out work sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics. Also for velours and knits (with more stretch). manual darning and embroidery NOTE: The pressure[...]

Set Up the Machine (Continued) • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever • Thread Cutter ,Normal up position I J I F jHigh | I I _-_ P °siti°n position _--I-----rt--'r_', _ x _!_._._ ',?,. _ Normal up X I_ "_t_" position _ _ Presser foot _ I lever j The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot. You c[...]

Accessory Storage Box I J The lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward you. Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box. = Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table To remove: f To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing) 1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown. 2. Pull it gently toward you. Th[...]

4 Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pants legs, or any circular garment area. .............. _E Darning socks or mending knees, elbows, or areas of wear in children's clothes. _J L Sewing bu_ons on sleeves, wd _Lud d_, etc. 10[...]

• Check the Presser Foot The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed. If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what yo[...]

• Change the Presser Foot (Continued) To Snap On f 2. To Snap On the Presser Foot: 1. Place the presser foot so the hori- zontal pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder. Lower the presser foot holder to lock the presser foot in place. NOTE: If you do not hear the presser foot snap ill place, press down on the presser foot ho[...]

• Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding Buttonhole Foot I Sliding buttonhole foot Use system. It is marked buttonholes accurately. 1 I J this foot for buttonholes of built-in to measure your Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 55). :Zipper Foot I _ E: Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide [...]

Choose _e Needle and Thread j Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In the needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics Orange (11 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics Purple (16) .......... f[...]

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Or9andy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Fla[...]

• To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine [ (_) Remove sliding the hook cover plate release button to the right. the cover Plate by (_ Take out the bobbin. • Horizontal Spool Pin [ Ordinary Spool Small Spool Tilt up the spool pin. Place the spool of thread on the spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as shown. Attach the large spool hold[...]

• Bobbin Winding f I Horizontal Spool Pin I f Additional Spool Pin ® Pull the clutch knob away from the machine to disengage clutch. (_ Draw the thread from the spool. Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide. (_) Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin, threading from the inside to the outside. _j Put the bobbin on the bo[...]

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder J 1. Put the bobbin into the bobbin holder so that the thread feeds counter-clockwise (left). 2. Pull about 4 inches of thread toward you through the tension slot _. 3. J Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through the slot (_) . / 4. Pull out about 1 5 cm (6") of thread an[...]

Prepare the Top Thread • Thread the Needle The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight. I I 1 Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Raise the presser foot lever. Place the spool on the spool pin as shown, [...]

Prepare the Top Thread (Continued) • Pick Up the Bobbin Thread 1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the needle thread loosely in left hand top thread, back of the presser foot, leaving 4 and rotate hand wheel toward to 6 inches of thread clear. you one complete turn. 20[...]

• Adjust the Top Thread Tension III Top side_f fabric Top- thread obbin thread Setting mark Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no gaps, that each stitch i[...]

For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the top tension. Top tension Top tension Too Tight Too Loose Just Right Top side of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric [...]

Guide message window .Stitch selector Red indicator ,. J The stitch selector cunbul determines the stitch you select. Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches is selected when the stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position. Suitable[...]

I k.. , j The stitch width control regulates the width of the stitch you select. The higher the number, the wider the stitch. The " ]_ " is the maximum twin needle stitches. width for The blue zone is adjustable area for button hole stitches. Stretch Stitch k. j The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stre[...]

Reverse To reverse stitch, hold down this con- trol during sewing. Release to sew forward again. Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Ins[...]

Stitch STRAIGHT I I I I I I t i J STRAIGHT STRETCH ZIGZAG RICK-RACK STRETCH BLIND HEM STITCH Stitch Selection I I I I III III Ul Ul J Foot and Other Attach. Straight Zigzag Zipper foot Straight Zigzag or Satin Zigzag or Zigzag Zigzag % Needle Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 1_55 Thread Tension 2_6 2_6 3_8 Stitch Length R[...]

Stitch OVERCAST STRETCH "--2, THREE-STEP ZIGZAG SMOCKING STITCH // / // SHELL STITCH SERGING Stitch Selection <:l, < o_ I ! 4 Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag % Zigzag % Zigzag % Satin % Zigzag % Needle Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. !55 Check Chart on p. 1,5 Blue (11) on p. 155 Thread Tension 2_6 2_6 2_6 4_[...]

St hox STITCHING ELASTIC STR ETCH FAGOTING L r" STRETCH PATCHING TWO-POINT SHELL STITCHING L > > N r_J r_J ;) Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag .% Zigzag % Zigzag % Zigzag % Zigzag % Needle Check Chart on p. 1.55 Check Chart on p. 1_55 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 1.55 Thread Tension 3_8 3_6 3_8 2~6 Stitch Length Red Zone Brown Str[...]

Stitch HERRING BONE STRETCH X TWO-POINT BOX STITCH L_ C L r- OVEREDGE STITCH DECORATIVE GEOMETRICS STRETCH STITCH DECORATIVE Stitch Selection L_ C:) C r.._ Foot and Other Attach. Zigzag Zigzag % Zigzag A %.% Satin % Zigzag % Needle Check Chart on p. 1_55 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 15 Check Chart on p. 1_55 Thread [...]

Stitch BUTTONHOLE E i TWIN NEEDLE STITCHES SATIN STITCH Stitch Selection 1,1 > :i Foot and Other Attach. Sliding buttonhole Buttonhole _._ attachment Zigzag % Satin Needle Check Chart on p. 1.55 Check Chart on p. 15 Twin Needle Thread Tension 2~6 2_6 3_7 Stitch Length Blue Zone Brown Stretch Stitch Posi ti on or G reen Zone Stitch Width Blue Zon[...]

• Straight Stitch I _t the Machine LU Stitch width control 0 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot H: Straight foot Stitch length control red zone °it, It ))' Stretch Stitch NOTE: Best sewing results are obtained with the straight stitch foot, but the zigzag foot will also provide acceptable resu Its. Before sewing with the strai[...]

• Dropping the Feed Dogs k o 1 Illll_ 4_11 Ill The drop feed lever is located underneath the free arm bed on the back side of the machine. To raise the feed dogs, push the lever in the direction of the arrow as illustrated. Then turn the handwheel. * Feed dogs must always be up for normal sewing. (_) For dropping the feed dogs, push the lever in [...]

• Topstitching f Set the Machine Stitch width control 0 1 213 4 Top thread tension Stitch length control 2 to 6 control red zone I ! A: Zigzag foot Stretch Stitch L 1 _,. H: Straight foot The Stitch and Its Uses Topstitching emphasizes the lines of your garment and keeps seams and edges flat and crisp. Accent suits or blouses with one or two rows[...]

• Sew in a Zipper Fabric Preparation: Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening. Use the reverse to lock the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at "4" and top thread tension at "3". End of opening Top edge of fabric Set the Machine LU Top thread tension control 2 to 6[...]

8. Open thezipper. 9. Lower the presser footand stitch the rest ofthe seam. / J Top side of fabric Top side of fabric 10. Close the zipper and turn the fabric top side up. 12. 13. To side "_ of fabric Remove the zipper foot and attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot. Stitch across and below the bot- tom of the zippel. Turn [...]

• Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 1 to 5 Y Top tnread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control red zone 2 IL ))' Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem- [...]

I I ) ) L L Satin Stitch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 F: Satin stitch foot Stitch width control 2 to 5 1 2|3_4 Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Stretch Stitch Pressure dial 1 or2 1 The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ampl[...]

Zigzag Stitches (Continued) • Applique f Top thread tension control 2 _o 6 F: Satin stitch foot Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 5 I 213 4 Stitch length control 0.5 _o 1 Stretch Stltch & Pressure dial: 2 / Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls[...]

Embroidery % Top thread tension control 2 to 6 No presser foot Set the Machine Stitch width controL 1 to 5 t 7_13_4 Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) Stretch Stitch Drop feed lever Here's How 1. Drop the feed dogs (see page 32). 2. Remove foot holder (see page 11). 3. Adjust the stitch width as desired (see page 24). 4[...]

Sew a Button Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch width control Must be adjusted t 213 4 A: Zigzag foot l, Stitch length control Any number (not necessary to adjust) 0L ))" Stretch Stitch Drop feed lever -_ f / Drop the feed dogs (see page 32). 1. / / x. j Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on t[...]

f Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch width control 3 to 5 213 4 O_ _ "5 Stitch length control red zone Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot ,) The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project. Helpful Hints Start overcasting a[...]

• Blind Hemming f Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 I A: Zigzag foot Stitch width control 2 to 3 Stitch length control red zone Stretch Stitch Light Weight Fabric Heavy Weight Fabric 1/4"' 1/4" k. J / 1. Finsih the raw edge of your hem any way you desire (see overcasting page 41). 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pi[...]

LaceWork Set the Machine Stitch width control 2 to 3 t 213 4 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot t" Stretch Stitch 1 JJ_ i / Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch to blouses and lingerie. Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace. Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 5/8". Place lace underneath and [...]

• Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Stitch width control 5 1 213 • Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Stretch Stitch [ .1 The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch. It h[...]

• Shell Stitching Set the Machine _ r- Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 4 to 9 F: Satin stitch foot j/ Stitch length control red zone Stretch Stitch Here's How 1. For best effect: - set the stitch length as you desire. - you may need to tighten the top thread tension slightly. -- allow the needle to just clear the folde[...]

Fagoting Stitch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 t A: Zigzag foot Stitch width control 5 Stitch len_lth control 0.5 to 2 2 Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest. J Here's How 1. 'Fold under each fabric edge 5/8" an[...]

I Two-point Box Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 I 213 4 o_ Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control red Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot This stitch fabrics. I useful to join elastic Overedging Stitch Set the Machine | I Stitch width control 3 to 5 't 213 4 Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control [...]

Decorate with Geometric Patterns Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 F: Satin stitch foot The Stitches and Their Uses These stitches are purely decorative. Stitch width control 3 to 5 Stitch length control green zone 2 Stretch Stitch You can sew one row or several or vary the stitch width and length for special effects. Experiment on [...]

• Straight Stretch f Stitch width control 0 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot H: Straight foot Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch is the stretch varia- tion of the straight stitch, especially developed for knits and stretch fabrics. Stretch stitching can be used on[...]

• Overcast Stretch Stitching Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 1 2|3 4 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch position Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish. The seam is formed and finished in one operation. It can be [...]

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching Set the Machine ! Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch width control 3 to 5 3_4 Stitch length' control brown stretch stitch position o Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses L J Use this stitch when you want a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat. It is ideal for 1/4" seams on [...]

Stretch Patching Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 O_ ---J 3_4..5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot Stitch length, control brown stretch stitch position Stretch Stitch [ I ) , ! _ ii I • J The Stitch and Its Uses For patching worn out elbows or knees. For patchwork quilting. • Herring Bone Stretch S -- Set the Mac---_--_-&ap[...]

! Decorative Stretch Patterns Set the Machine Stitch width control 3to5 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch IJUUI_IU4= 2 h)._3 Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses Decorative stretch patterns can be used for adding creative and personalised touch to the items you sew for your home and family[...]

• Learning to Sew Buttonholes With your Kenmore sewing machine you have two methods of making buttonholes. You may use the built-in system or you may use the optional snap-in automatic buttonhols attachment system. Choose the buttonhole style Built-in bottonholes (rectangular). Choose this style for waistband, cuffs, belt slots or where you will [...]

• Built-in System . ! I I Set the Machine Top thread tension Stitch width control 3 to 5 1 213-4 Stitch length control Blue zone _ control 2 to 6 Stretch Stitch I __3_ Sfading buttonhole foot } J Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the bl[...]

4. a. b. C. Set the stitch selector at _ . Sew 4 to 6 stitches. Stop sewing at the right stitch. NOTE: When sewing at the edge of fabric, set sliding buttonhole foot as illustrared and sew in reverse ( [_ [_]-->_]-_] ). C. 5. a. Set the stitch selector at _ . b. Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at iLu_u_, _y,_ L _u LL.[...]

• Using Buttonhole Attachment (NOTE: The buttonhole attachment is anoptional item.) Buttonhole Attachment System For more varied and accurate buttonholes, you will enjoy using the button- hole attachment and templates. Know the parts and carefully read how to set up your machine properly. You will need these items for the buttonhoie attachement s[...]

I !>1 Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch width control 2 1 2_ 3.,,. 4 Stitch length control 3 to 4 0 j, Stretch Stitch I Buttonhole foot Helpful Hints Best results are obtained by using #60 _ #80 light weight threads as bobbin thread. NOTE: It is advisable to use a blue stretch fabric needle when sewing knits and syntheti[...]

2. a. b, c. (Optional Item) guide plate plate ! Guide s!ot / Guide block I Setting Mark / Gear e plate When you have selected the template with the size and style button- hole you need, slide the template into the guide plate. Pull catch toward you while sliding the template until the button- hole size you have thorn is at the setting mark. Insert [...]

k. 4. a. b. C. d. e. NOTE: (Optional Item) Marked | I buttonhole-_ /_ _ ! Center marking- II I!1 Fabric Measurement markings - j Mark your buttonhole position carefully on the garment. Placing your garment behind the machine, insert it between the guide plate and the buttc,-_hole foot as shown. Align marked buttonhole with center marking on buttonh[...]

[ I Set the Machine for any of these stitch Top thread tension control 3 to 7 Stitch width control I'' (maximum) 2_ 3,_. 4 Stitch length control brown stretch stitch positio_ or grue, t zu_qe A: Zigzag foot F: Satin stitch foot Twin needle I Turn off the power switch. (see page 6). Insert the additional spool pin in the hole. (see page [...]

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering Incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser [...]

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread Breaking Bobbin Thread Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Incorrect size needle. Bent or blunt needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension. Incorrect size needle. Sharp eye in [...]

! i !i l t p J 1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover plate. CAUTION! The light bulb could be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. 2. . Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it. Put :the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise. To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep [...]

1. Unplug the machine and remove the presser foot and needle. 2. Remove the bobbin cover plate. 3. Remove the screw on the left side of the needle with the large screw driver. 4. Remove the needle plate. J 6. Use the lint brush to clean the feed dogs, hook race and bobbin holder. Also use a soft, dry cloth. 5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the bobbi[...]

PARTS LIST / 1 I 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 66 10 11 12 13 9/oJ 19 2O 28 29 21 22 W 14 15 23 24 % 16 17 18 @ ® 25 26 27 J[...]

All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM if the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Dist[...]

.......................... nTGl_q_/ i I iilr ..... _ ....... _ . _ _ , A Accessory storage box .............. 3, 9 Additional spool pin ............... 16 Appliqueing ................... 26, 38 B Bar tacking ................... 26, 38 Base ........................... 3 Base plate ....... ............... 67 Basic zigzag ................... 2tJ, 31J [...]

Thread guide ................. 3_4,19 Three-step zigzag ............... 27, 44 Topstitching .................. 26, 33 Twin needle stitches ............... 61 Top thread ................... 1 9"-22 Top thread tension .............. 21_22 Top thread tension contlol ....... 3,21_22 Turning a square corner ............. 31 Two-point box stitching [...]

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SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. -]"he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sew[...]