Timex 61 manual

1 No. 61 Restoration Log & Instruction Manual Andrew LaBounty, 2002[...]

2 Waterbury Regulator No.61 Andrew LaBounty, Apprentice Clockmaker; Sophomore, Olathe North High School, 2002[...]

3 Table of Contents A History of the Waterbury Clock Company .................................................................. 1-2 The Process .................................................................................................................... 3-13 To Begin – The Take Down..........................................................[...]

1 A History of the Waterbury Clock Company (1857 – 1942) The Waterbury Clock Company, founde d in March 5, 1857, began as a venture into the lucrative clock market by the am bitious Benedict & Burnham Corporation, heretofore the “B&B Corp.” Being a compa ny specia lizing in the production of brass, and with clock movements being made [...]

2 Until this point, Waterbury had been offe ring chiefly commonplace c locks. Their fame was truly made, however, when Waterbury, in 1892, began to build watches for the Ingersoll Company, who sold them as dollar wa tch alternatives to the expensive watches of the time. These became known as Inge rsoll W atches, and we re produced by an offshoot of[...]

3 The Process To Begin – The Take Down The first day of work began on the morning of February 27, 2002; ni nety years after the presentation of the clock to the school by the class of 1912. We [David LaBounty CMC, FBHI and Andrew LaBounty, Apprentice] recei ved permission from Asst. Principal Mr. Carmody to remove the clock’s m ovement, di al, [...]

4 At the Shop – Cleaning it up The first step in restoring the movement wa s obviously to remove it from both the dial and the metal box that encased it. To achieve th is, the taper pins that held the dial to the box and the screws affixing the movement to the box were all rem oved. In addition, the hands were removed to take the dial off. After [...]

5 M y Drawin g ( see attachment C ) On Paper – Making a Map Before I could take the movement entirely apart, it had to be drawn so I would be able to put it together again with the gears in their proper places. To do this, I drew circles and numbered them in a hierarchy to display the orde r in which they went, then drew each individual gear to s[...]

6 Taking it Apart – And Determining Beats per Hour Finally, real work could begin with the gears themselves out side of the movement. To take the movement apart was a sim ple matte r of taking out five screws and pulling the front plate straight upward to avoid bending any pivots or shafts. This done, the gears were exposed and could be removed a[...]

7 File – The First Ste p Polishing Pivots – The Dreary Part Next, it was time to polish the bearing surfaces of the clock, called the pivots. The pivots are the ends of the gears that turn in the plate, and if th ey’re not polished, the clo ck will be sluggish and possibly stop. This is mostly due to the dirt that will be trapped in the scrat[...]

8 Major Project – The Escape Wheel “Nut” After the pivot polishing process was com ple te for all eight pivots, I progressed to “bushing” the pivot holes. A bushing is a sm all cylinder of brass with a h ole in the middle designed to replace a worn h ole. To replace a worn hole, one uses a hand reamer (a small handheld tool that when twis[...]

9 inserted the smaller end of the threads (which I filed down) into the rim of brass that w as the head of the nut and peen ed the end down by hammering it fl at so that it wouldn’t slip when it was screwed in. After the new threads were stuck tight in the rim, I drilled a hole through them, creating a threaded bushing, and eventually sized that [...]

10 Polishing the Pivot Holes – Everything’s so Shiny! Since most of the hard part was complete d, I was happy to move on to polishing pivot holes, as it meant the pivots would soon be in them and turning again. Unfortunately, the pivot holes take a little while to clean, t hough they go much faster if the bushings are done right. To polish a pi[...]

11 rotation of the escape wheel. The lock face is th e portion of the pallet that stops an escape tooth. There are also lift angles on the ends of the pallets (the lift faces) tha t drive the pendulum sufficiently to keep the clock running, and are subject to wear (as are the lock faces). My first goal was to measure the lift angles. To do so, I m [...]

12 I used the finer adjustment knob nearer to the bottom of the leader to finish the adjustment. After setting the bea t, I set the rate, or the quickness of the tick-tocks. This was done using the nut at the bottom of the pendulum. I used the same timing machine to measure how m any beats the clock made per hour, which I found above to be 3600. I [...]

13 Conclusion – And Thanks I really enjoyed working on this lovely clock, and I’m honored to be a part of the history begun by the esteemed Class of 1912. Olathe No rth truly has one of the great clocks in existence today, and I trust it will be around fo r another 90 or 100 years. I would like to thank Mrs. Dorland and Mr. Carmody for th eir s[...]

14 Care and Maintena nce This Section by: David LaBounty, Certif ied Master Clockmaker A WI, Fellow BHI Winding This clock should be wound on a regular basi s and once per week is acceptable. The clock may run for twelve to fourteen days but it is important to avoid having the weight settle on the bottom of the case. Damage to the es cape wheel tee[...]

15 Rating Rating the clock means adjusting the time keep ing so the clock neither gains nor loses time while it is running. This is done by ra ising or lowering the pendulum bob using the rating nut on the bottom of the pendulum. Stop the pendulum to m ake all adjustments and then gently start the pendulum swinging when done. Minimize the amount of[...]

16 The wood case may be dusted with a slightly da mp cloth and it is generally not advisable to apply a dusting agent. W ax buildup and dirt will darken the case with years of use and could destroy the original finish. Moving the Clock At some point it may become necessary to relo cate the clock. This m ay be done safely if certain measures are tak[...]

17 to place shims under the front of the clock to force it to lean back against the wall. If this isn’t done, the clock may sway or worse yet, fall over! The case must also be leveled side-to-side. Place a bubble level in the bottom of the case and shim one side or the other until the case is leveled. The case must be back against the wall and le[...]

18 Bibliography French Clocks: The World Over, Part One , by Tardy. Paris, 1949. pp. 10-30 Machinery’s Handbook 24 th Edition , by Oberg, Jones, Horton, Ryffel. Edited by Robert E. Green. New York: Industrial Press Inc., 1992. pp. 1706-1707 Seth Thomas Clocks and Movements , by Tran Duy Ly. Virginia: Arlington Book Company, 1996. pp. 20-21 Waterb[...]

19 Attachment A Repair Itemization: • Polish eight pivots • Clean four shafts • Straighten six escape wheel teeth • Draw (stretch) escape wheel teeth • Tip (machine) escape wheel teeth to true escape wheel • Straighten two pivots • Replace threads on hand nut • Install three bushings • Make one new movement screw (e xtra long and [...]

20 Attachment B Tooth Count: • Hour Pipe = 80 teeth • Minute Wheel = 54 teeth • Minute Wheel Pinion = 10 leaves • Hour Wheel = 80 teeth • Cannon Pinion = 36 leaves • Main Wheel = 84 teeth • Second Wheel = 80 teeth • Second Wheel Pinion = 8 leaves • Third Wheel = 72 teeth • Third Wheel Cut Pinion = 12 leaves • Third Wheel Lante[...]

21 Attachment C O riginal Sketch[...]

22 Attachment D Other Sketches[...]

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