Brother CS 80 manuel d'utilisation

ENGLISH 885-S06 XC5247-021 1 Printed in China S2_BrotherE_cov er DIC181p K[...]

Cover A Enclosed Accessories After open ing the box , check that th e following accessor ies are encl osed. If any it em is miss ing or damage d, contact your retailer. Access ories 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.* 11. 12. 13. 14 . 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22 . 23. 24. 25. * 75/11 2 n eedles 90/14 2 n eedles 90/14 2 n eedles: Ba ll point need le [...]

Cover B Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions The nam es of the v arious parts of the sewi ng machine a nd their fun c tions a re described below. Before using the sewing mac hine, carefully read these descriptions to le arn the names of the machine parts. Front view 7 1 Thread cassette compartm ent cover 2 Threa d cass ette com partm ent Inse[...]

————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— Nam es of M achine Parts and T heir Fu nctio ns Cover C Needle a n d pres ser foot section 1 Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. 2 Needle bar th read hook Pass the upper thread t[...]

Cover D Operation buttons The ope ration butt ons help you t o easily perfo rm various basic sewi ng machine operations. 1 Thread cassette indicator The indicator lights up or goes off depending on the condition of the sewing machine. Gree n: A thre ad casse tte can be inser ted. Red: A threa d cassette cannot be inserted. Off: The sewi ng machine [...]

————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions Cover E Operation panel The ope ration panel, loc ated on the fron t of the sewing ma chine, consists of v arious buttons and s lide rs for specifyin g how the stitch wi ll be sewn. [...]

1 Optional Accessori es The follo wing are ava ilable as optiona l accessories. 1. Side cutter Part code: SA177, XC3879-002 2. Quil ting guide Part code: SA132, XC2215-002 3. Guide foot Part code: SA133, XC1957-002 4. Walking foot Part code: SA140, XC2214-002 5. Quilting foot Part code: SA129, XC1948-002 Memo ● To obta in optional accessor ies or[...]

2 Introduction Thank y ou for purcha sing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, ca refully read the “ Important Safety Instructio ns ” (page 6), and the n study this manual for the correct o peration of th e various func tions. In additio n, after you have finished re ading this ma nual, store it whe re it can quick ly be acces[...]

3 Contents Enclosed Accessorie s ................ ............. .................... ................... ............. ............... Co ver A Accessori es ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ ...... ......... ........ ........ . Cover A Names o f Machine Pa rts a[...]

———————— ——————————— ——————————— —————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 4 SEWING BASICS .... ................... ................... ....................... ................... ......... 41 Sewing ................... .........[...]

5 APPENDIX ..... ................... .................. ................... ................... .................. ..... 95 Stitch Se ttings .. ................... ................... .................... ............. ................... ................... ..... 96 Utility stitches .... ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ...[...]

6 Important Safety Instructions When us ing this mac hine, basic safety precau tions shou ld always be taken, includi ng the foll owing: Read all ins tructions befor e using. DANGER - To reduce t he risk of el ectric shoc k: 1. The machin e should n ever be lef t unattended while plug ged in. Alw ays unplug the machine from the el ectrical outl et [...]

7 FOR USE RS IN THE UK, EIRE , MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this ma chine is fitte d with a thre e-pin non- rewireable BS plu g then pl ease read the following. IMPORTANT If the ava ilable sock et outlet is n ot suitable fo r the plug s upplied with t his equipm ent, it sho uld be cut off and a n appropria te three-pin plug fitted . With altern ative p[...]

8 CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE Your machi ne is one of the most a dvanced com puterized househol d sewing m achines. To fully enjoy all t he features, we suggest that you stud y the manua l before u sing the ma chine. PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE For safe operation 1. Be sure to k eep your eye on the nee dle while se wing. Do no[...]

1 GETTING READY The variou s preparat ions requir ed before starting to sew are desc ribed in this chapte r. Turning the Machine On /Off ................... ............. ................... .................... .......... 10 Winding/Ins talling the Bobbin ........... ................... ............. ................... ................. 12 Upper [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 10 Turning the Machine On/Off This sectio n explains ho w to tu rn the sewing m achine on and off. Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the follo wing pr[...]

Turning the Machine On /Off 11 1 Turning on the machine 1 Make sure that the sewing ma chine is turned off (the main p owe r swit ch i s set to “ O ” ), a nd then plug the power supply cord into the power supply jack on the righ t side of the machi ne. 2 Insert the plug of the power su pply cord into a househ old electrica l outlet. 1 Power sup[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 12 Winding/Install ing the Bobbin This sectio n describes how to wind the thr ead onto the bobbin , and then in sert the bobbin th read. Bobbin precautions Be s[...]

Winding/ Installing the Bobbin 13 1 5 Slide the bobbin w inder sh aft to the right. 6 Place th e spool of thr e ad for the bobbin onto the bobbi n thread spool p in. 7 Slid e the sp ool ca p onto the bo bbin th read spool p in. With the ro unded side of the spool cap position ed toward the left, slide the spool cap onto the bobbin thread spool pin [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 14 Memo ● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as t ransparent nylon thread o r metallic thread, place the enc losed spool net over the sp ool befor[...]

Winding/ Installing the Bobbin 15 1 a Slide the sewing speed controller to the right (so that the spe ed w ill be f ast). 1 Sewing speed controller b Press (start/stop b utton) once. 1 Start/stop button X T he bobbin starts spinni ng and the thr e ad is wound around the b obbin. X The bo bbin spins slowly when it is full. c When the bobbin begin s [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 16 Installing the bobbin Install the bobbin wound w ith thread. Memo ● The ord er that the bobb in thread shoul d be passed thro ugh the needle p late is indi[...]

Winding/ Installing the Bobbin 17 1 7 Reatt ach the bo bbin co ver. Insert the tab in the lowe r-left corner of the bobbin c over, and then lightly press dow n on the ri ght sid e. X The lowe r threading is finish ed. Next, threa d the upper thread. Continue with the pr oced ure in “ Upper Thre ad ing ” ( on the next pa ge). Memo ● You can be[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 18 Upper Threading In this sect ion, the procedu res for positioning the spool for t he upper thread and threadin g the needle are desc ribe d. About the spool [...]

Uppe r Thread ing 19 1 Loading the spool into the thread cas sette Load th e spool of thread into the enclosed thread cassett e to pre pare t he upper thread . Memo ● The order for thre ading the thread cassette is indicated on the thread c assette. Also chec k the marking s on the threa d cassette while threading it. 1 Turn on the sewing machine[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 20 3 Push th e thread ca ssette ej ect leve r on the left side of t he machi ne toward the b ack. 1 Thread ca ssette eject l ever X The th read ca ssette is rai[...]

Uppe r Thread ing 21 1 8 While holding the end of the thread with your right hand an d the thread cassette with your left hand, cl ose th e cover. 9 Pass the thread through the slit in the top o f the thread cassette. Follow a rrow 2 indicate d on the thread cassett e. 0 Pull the th read to the left and pass it through the slit alo ng the left side[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 22 c Pull the threa d under the disc at the front in the low er-left corn er and arou nd to the right , and then cut the thread with the cutter. Follow a rrow 6[...]

Uppe r Thread ing 23 1 • If the ne edle is not rai sed to the cor rect position, the needle cannot be threaded w ith the nee dle threader. Be sure to check t hat the threa d cassette indic a tor is lit up in green before in serting the thread c assette. 2 Insert the thread cassette in to the thread cassette compartment. Slowly press down on t he [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 24 5 Close t he thread ca ssette co mpartmen t cover. X Now th at the upper threading and the lo wer thre ading are fin ished, you are ready t o begin sew ing. [...]

Uppe r Thread ing 25 1 4 Thread the thread cassette with the thread from th e spool on the extra spool pin. • For more deta ils, refer to “ Loadi ng the s pool into the thread cassett e ” (pa ge 19 ). 5 Insert the thread c a ssette (with the e xtra spool pin attached) in to the thread cassette comp artment . Use bo th hands to press do wn on [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 26 Using the twin needle Using the twin needle, you can sew tw o parallel lines of the same stitch with tw o different colors. Both uppe r threads should ha ve [...]

Uppe r Thread ing 27 1 5 Insert the thread c a ssette (with the e xtra spool pin attached) in to the thread cassette comp artment . • For more deta ils, refer to step 5 in “ Using the ext ra spool pin ” (pag e 24) . X Pass both threads through the n eedle bar thre ad hook. • The nee dle threader c annot be used. If the needle t hreader is u[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 28 a Star t sewing. • For details o n starting to sew, refer to “ Startin g to sew ” (page 45). X Two lin es of stitching are sewn parallel t o each other[...]

Uppe r Thread ing 29 1 Pulling up the bobbin thread When making gathers or before free -motion quilting, first pull up the bobbi n thread as des c ribed below. 1 Insert the bobbi n into the shuttle. • Refer to steps 1 thr ough 5 of “ I nstalling the bobbi n ” (page 16). 2 Pass the bobbin thread through the sl ot. Do not cut the thread with th[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 30 Replacing the Needle This sectio n provides informa tion on sewin g machi ne needles. Needle pre cautions Be sure to observe the f ollowing precautio ns conc[...]

Replacing the Needle 31 1 Memo ● The sma ller the thread number, the thic ker the thre ad, and the la rger the needle numbe r, the thicker the needle. ● Use the ball point nee dle when sewing o n stretch f a brics or fa brics where skipped stit ches easil y occur. ● Use a 9 0/14 to 100/1 6 needle with tran sparent ny lon threads , regardle ss[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 32 Replacing t he needle Repl ace the needl e as desc ribed below. Use the screwdriver and a needle t hat has been determined to be strai ght accordin g to the [...]

Replacing the Needle 33 1 6 While hol ding the needle wi th your left hand, use th e screwdrive r to tight en the ne edle clam p screw. Install the twin needle in the same way. ■ Using th e needle-cha nging tool Use the enclosed ne edle-chang ing tool to re place the need le as describe d below. 1 Pass the ne edle through the ho le in the needle [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 34 4 Lowe r the ne edle-c hang ing too l. X The nee dle ca n be rem oved from t he need le bar. 5 Insert the new ne edle into the hole i n the needle- changing [...]

Replac i ng th e Presser Foot 35 1 Replacing the Presser Foot The presse r foot presses down o n the fabric. Presser foot precautions Be sure to observe the follo wing precautions c oncerning the p resser feet. Replacing the pr esser foot Replace th e presser foo t as described below. For deta ils on using the side cutter “S ” , refer to “ Se[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 36 4 Press the blac k butto n at the b ack of t he presser foot holder. 1 Black but ton 2 Presser foot holder X The pre sser foot holder releases the p resser f[...]

Replac i ng th e Presser Foot 37 1 Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foo t holder whe n cleaning the sewing mac hine or when inst alling a presser foot that does not u se the presser fo ot holder, such as t he quilting f oot. Use the sc rewdriver to rem ove the presser f oot holder. ■ Remov ing the presser f oot holder 1 Remove [...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 38 Using the optional walking foot With the w alking foot, bo th pieces of fa bric are fed evenly by the feed do gs and the teeth on the presser foot. This is u[...]

Replac i ng th e Presser Foot 39 1 3 Raise t he presser foot lever. 1 Presser foot lever X The pre sser foot is raised. 4 With a screwdriver, loose n the presser foot holder scre w, and then r emov e the walking foot. 1 Presser foot holder screw 5 Attach the presser fo ot holder. • For details, refe r to “ Removing th e presser foot hold er ”[...]

GETTING RE ADY —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 40 Sewing Cylindrical Piec es Free -arm sewing m akes sewing cylindrica l pieces e asy. Free-arm sewi n g Removin g the flap allows fo r free-arm sewing, making[...]

2 SEWING BASICS The n ecessary pr eparations f or sewing are describe d in this ch apter. Sewing ... ................... ................... .................... ............. ................... ................... .... 42 Adjusting t he Thread Tension ............. ................... ................... ............. ................. 50 Adjusti[...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 42 Sewing Basic se wing operation s are describe d below. Before op erating the se wing machine, read the follo w ing precautions. ● While the m achine is in [...]

Sewing 43 2 General sewing procedure Follow t he basic p rocedures be low to sew. 1 Turn on the machi ne. Turn o n the se wing ma chine . For de tails on tur ning o n the m achin e, refe r to “ Tur ning on the machi ne ” (pag e 11). ↓ 2 Select t he stitch. Selec t the stit ch appropr iate for th e area to b e sewn. For detail s on selecti ng [...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 44 Positioning the fabric Be sure that the fabric pieces are sew n in the correct order an d that the right and w rong sides of the fab ric are a ligned corre c[...]

Sewing 45 2 Starting to sew Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the operation buttons or the foot controller. ■ Using the operation buttons Sewing can be started and stopped using the operation button (start/stop button). 1 Slide the sewing speed controller to the lef[...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 46 3 Turn on the sewing mach ine. 4 Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to select the desired sewin g speed. Slide the sewing spee d controll[...]

Sewing 47 2 Securing the stitching When sewing w ith the straight stitch, for exam ple, at the end of an opening o r where seams do not overlap , use reverse stitchi ng or reinforcem ent stitching t o secure the end of the threa d. 1 Lower the n eedle into the f abric at the beginnin g of the stitching, and the n lower the presser foot lever. 2 Pre[...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 48 7 After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, release (reverse /reinforcem ent stitch button) . X The mach ine stop s sewing . 8 Press (start/stop button),[...]

Sewing 49 2 Cutting the threa d When you have finished sewi ng, cut the thre ads. 1 When y ou wish to fin ish the sti tching an d the sewing machine is stopped, press (needle pos ition button) o nce to raise the needle. 1 Needle p os ition button X The ne edle is raised. 2 Raise t he presser foot lever. 1 Presser foot lever 3 Pull the f abric to th[...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 50 Adjusting th e Thread Tension The tensio ns of the upper th read and of the bobbin thread (th read tension) should be adjusted so that they are equal. Changi[...]

2 51 Adjusting th e Stitch Width and Length The zig zag width (pattern width) and st itch length of u tility stitches can be adjusted. Norma lly, when a stitch i s selected , the appropri ate width and l e ngth are automaticall y selected. For details on the range of value s within which th e width and leng th can be set, re fer to “ Stitch Sett [...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 52 Adjusting the stitch leng th 1 Press the stitch length adjustme nt button in the oper ation panel. X The stitch length adjustment indicato r lights up. 2 Sli[...]

Usef ul Sewing Tips 53 2 Useful Sewing Tips Various w ays to ach ieve better results for yo ur sewing proje cts are des cribed below. Refer to thes e tips when sewi ng your proje ct. Trial sewing After you have set up the machine with the thread and nee dle appropriate for the type of f abric being sewn, the machine auto matically se ts the thread [...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 54 Sewing thick fabrics ■ If the f abric does not fit u nder the presser foot If the fa bric does not fit e asily under the presse r foot, raise the presser f[...]

Usef ul Sewing Tips 55 2 Sewing thin fabrics When sewing t hin fabrics, the stitching may be come misaligne d or the fabric m ay not feed corre ctly. If this oc curs, place thin p aper or stabilize r material under the fabric and sew it t ogether with the fabric. When you ha ve finished sewing , tear off any exc ess paper. 1 Stab ilize r ma terial [...]

SEWI NG BASICS ————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 56 S2_brotherE.book Page 56 Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM[...]

3 UTILITY ST ITCHES The variou s stitches a nd their a pplication s are describ ed in this chapter. Selecting St itching .......... .................... ................... ............. ................... ................. 58 Overcastin g Stitches . ............. ................... .................... ................... ............. .........[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 58 Selec ting S titchi ng You can select any of th e various types of stitching available . Selecting s titching Using the operation pane l keys, select th e des[...]

Selectin g Stitching 59 3 2 To adjust th e stitch width, slide the stitch width ad justment slider to the left or right. Press the stitch width adjustmen t button, and then slide the stitch width adjustment slider to adjust the stitch width. 1 Stit ch width adjustment indi cator 2 Stit ch width adjustment butt on 3 Stit ch width adjustment slid er [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 60 Overcasting St itches Sew overcas ting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent them from fraying. Seven stitches are a vailable for overcasting. The[...]

Overcastin g Stitches 61 3 Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J” Three stitc hes can be used to sew overcast ing stitches with zig zag foot “ J” . 1 Attac h zigza g foot “J”. • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pres ser foot ” (p age 35). 2 Select a stit ch. • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ”[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 62 Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter Using the side cutter, seam allo wances can be finis hed while the edge of the fabr ic is cut off. [...]

Overcastin g Stitches 63 3 4 Raise t he presse r foot lever to check th at the side cutter is securely attached. 5 Pass the upper thread unde r the side cutter, and then pull it out tow ard the rear of the sewing mach ine. 6 Select a stit ch. • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ” (page 5 8). 7 Make a cut of about 2 c m (1/16 inch)[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 64 Basic St itching Straight stitches are used fo r sewing plain se ams. Three stitche s are available fo r basic stitching. Basi c stitching 1 Baste or pin toge[...]

Blind He m Stitching 65 3 Blin d Hem St itching Secure the bottoms of skirt s and pant s with a blind hem. T wo stitches are a vailable for bli nd hem stitching . Sew a blind hem acc ording to the following pro cedure. 1 Fold the fabric along the desired edge o f the hem, an d then bas te it about 5 m m (3/16 in ch) from the e dge of the fabric. 1 [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 66 6 Adjust the stitc h width until the needle slightly catc hes the fold of the h em. 1 Needle drop point 1 Needle drop point 2 Wider stitch 3 Narrower stitch ?[...]

Buttonhole S titching 67 3 Buttonhole Stitchin g Button holes can be sewn a nd buttons ca n be sewn on. Fi ve stitches are a vailable for sew ing one-step buttonhol es. Stitch Name Patt ern Applic ation Stitch Wid th [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (in c h.)] Presser Foot Auto Manual Au to Ma nual Buttonhole stitch Horizont al buttonholes on thin an[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 68 Buttonhole sewing The ma ximum buttonhol e length is abou t 28 mm (1-1/8 inch) (diameter + thickness of the b utton). Button holes are sewn fro m the front of[...]

Buttonhole S titching 69 3 ■ If the button does not fit in the button gu ide plate Add togeth er the diamete r and thickn ess of the button , and then set the button guide plate to t he calcul ated lengt h. (The distanc e between th e markings on th e presser foot scale is 5 m m (3/16 inch).) 1 Presser foot scale 2 Length of buttonhole (Dia meter[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 70 8 Raise the presser foot lev er, remove the fabric, and cut the thread. 9 Raise the buttonhole leve r to its original position . 0 Insert a pi n along t he in[...]

Buttonhole S titching 71 3 ■ Sewin g buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing bu ttonholes o n stretch fab rics, use a gimp t hread. 1 Hook the gim p thread onto the part of buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration so that it fi ts into the grooves, and then loose ly tie it . 2 Attach butt onhole foot “ A” . • For details, refe r[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 72 4 Place the butto n into button-sewing foot “M”. 1 Butto n • When att aching four-hole bu ttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the[...]

Zipper Inse rtion 73 3 Zipp er Insertio n A zippe r can b e sewn in place. Ther e are many method s for in sertin g zipper s. The pr ocedure s for i nserting a cente red zipp er and a side zip per are d escribed b elow. Inserting a centered zipper Stitching is sewn on both p ieces of fabric b utted again st each other. 1 Right side of fabric 2 Stit[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 74 6 Select stitch . • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ” (page 5 8). 7 Topstitc h around the z ipper. 1 Stitching 2 Right side of fabric 3 Ba[...]

Zipper Inse rtion 75 3 4 Press the seam allowance so that the rig ht side (the side that will not be stitched) has an e xtra 3 mm (1/8 inch). 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 3 mm (1/8 inc h) 5 Align the zipp er teet h with th e press ed edge of the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), and then baste or pin the zipper in place. 1 Zipper teeth 2 Basting[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 76 0 Clos e the zippe r, turn ov er the fab ric, an d then baste th e other sid e of the z ipper to the fabric. 1 Basting stitchi ng a Attach the presser foot ho[...]

Sewing S tretch Fabric s and Elas tic Tape 77 3 Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elast ic tape can be attached. Observe the corresponding precautions w hen performing each o f the following stitching opera tions. Stretch stitching 1 Attac h zigza g foot “J”. • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pr[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 78 3 Select stitch . • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ” (page 5 8). 4 Sew the elastic ta pe to the fabric wh ile stretching the tape so that[...]

Appliqué , Patchwor k and Quilt S titching 79 3 Appliq ué , Pa tch work a nd Qu ilt S titchin g The sti tches that can be us ed for sewing appliqu é s, pa tchwork and q uilts are descri bed below. Stitch Na me Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stit ch Length [mm (inch.)] Pr esser Foot Auto Manua l Auto Ma nual Zigzag stitch Attach in[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 80 Appliqu é stit ching 1 Cut out the appliqu é , leav ing a seam allowan ce of betwee n 3 and 5 mm (1/ 8 and 3/ 16 i nch). 1 Seam allowance 2 Place a pa ttern[...]

Appliqu é , Patchwork and Quilt Stitc hing 81 3 Patchwork (cra zy quilt) stitching 1 Fold the edg e of th e top p iece of fabr ic and place it over the l ower piece. 2 Sew the two piece s of fabric together so the pattern s pans over both pieces. Piecing Sewing to gether two pieces of fabric is called “ piecing ” . The fabric pi eces should be[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 82 Memo ● To ch ange the width of the se am allowance (the ne edle position), adju st the stitch width. Quilting Sandw iching batting b etween the to p and bot[...]

Appliqu é , Patchwork and Quilt Stitc hing 83 3 ■ Using th e optional qu ilting guide Use the quilting guide t o sew parallel stitche s that are equal ly spa ced. 1 Insert the stem o f the quilter into th e hole at the re ar of the wa lking fo ot or pr esser foo t holder .  Walking fo ot  Presser foot h older 2 Adjust the ste m of the quil[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 84 4 Slide t he drop feed lev er, locat ed at the re ar of the mac hine on the base, to (to the right as se en fr om the fro nt of the ma chine ). 1 Feed dog pos[...]

Reinforceme nt Stitching 85 3 Reinforcement Stitching Reinforce points that will b e subject to strain , such as sleeve holes, in seams and pocket c orners. Triple stretch stitching Use triple stre tch stitching to reinfo rce sleeve hole s and inseam s. 1 Attac h zigza g foot “J”. • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pres ser foot ” [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 86 2 Attach butt onhole foot “ A” . • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pres ser foot ” (p age 35). 3 Select stitch . • For details, refe r to [...]

Eyelet Stitc hing 87 3 Eyelet Stitching Eyelets, such as those on be lts, can be sewn. Th ree sizes of eyelet s are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15/64 an d 3/16 inch). 1 Attach mo nogramming fo ot “N”. • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pres ser foot ” (p age 35). 2 Select stitch . • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g s[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 88 Decorative Stitchi n g Various dec orative stitches c an be sewn with t his sewing machine . Stitch Name Patt ern Applic ation Stitch Wid th [mm (inch.)] Stit[...]

Decorativ e Stitching 89 3 Fagoting Stitching across an ope n seam is called “ fagoting ” . It is used on bl ouses and children 's clothing. Th is stitch is more deco rative when th icker thread is u sed. 1 Use an i ron to fold the t wo pieces of fa bric along their seam s. 2 Baste th e two pieces of fabric, sepa rated by about 4 m m (3/16[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 90 Scal lop stit ching The wa ve-shaped re peating pat tern that look s like shells is called “ scalloping ” . It is used on the collars of blou ses and t o [...]

Decorativ e Stitching 91 3 5 Select stitch or . • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ” (page 5 8). 6 Stitch between th e straight stitches. 7 Pull out the threads for the straight stitches. Joining Decorativ e bridging stit ches can be sewn over the seam al lowance of joined fabrics. This is used w hen making a crazy quilt. 1 Atta [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 92 Heirloom stitching When sewin g with the wing need le, the needle hole s are enla rged, creat ing a lace-like decorative stit ch. This is used to decorate hem[...]

Decorativ e Stitching 93 3 2 Attach mo nogramming fo ot “N”. • For details, refe r to “ Replac ing the pres ser foot ” (p age 35). 3 Select stitch . • For details, refe r to “ Selectin g stitching ” (page 5 8). 4 With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew alon g the righ t edge of the frayed secti on. 5 Turn the f abric around[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— —— — 94 S2_brotherE.book Page 94 Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM[...]

4 APPENDIX The variou s mainte nance and troubles hooting pr ocedures a re des cribed in t his chapt er. Stitch Setting s ........... ................... .................... ................... ............. ................... .... 96 Maintenance .................. .................... ................... ............. ................... .......[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 96 Stitch Setti n gs Applicatio ns, stitch lengths a nd widths and whet her the twin needl e can be used are listed for utility stitc hes in the follow ing tabl[...]

Stitch Se ttings 97 4 Joining s titch J Patchwor k stitching and decorat ive stitching 4.0 (3/ 16) 0.0 – 7. 0 (0 – 1/4) 1.2 (1/16) 0.2 – 4.0 (1/64 – 3/1 6) Yes Reinforce- ment No No J Patchwor k stitching, decorative stitching and sewing o vercasting on both pi eces of fabr ic, such as wi th tricot 5.0 (3/ 16) 2.5 – 7. 0 (3/32 – 1/4) 2.[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 98 Buttonh ole stitch A Horizon tal buttonh oles on thi n and me dium- weight fab rics 5.0 (3/ 16) 3.0 – 5. 0 (1/8 – 3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2 – 1.0 (1/64 – [...]

Stitch Se ttings 99 4 Decorative stitches N For decoration , etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0 – 7. 0 (0 – 1/4) 2.5 (3/32) 0.2 – 4.0 (1/64 – 3/1 6) No Reinforce- ment No No N For decoration , etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0 – 7. 0 (0 – 1/4) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2 – 4.0 (1/64 – 3/1 6) No Reinforce- ment No No N For decoration , etc. 7.0 (1/4) 0.0 – 7. 0 (0 – 1/4) 2[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 100 Maintenance Simp le sewing mac hine mainte nance oper ations are described bel ow. Cleani ng the machine surface If the surfa ce of the machin e is dirty, l[...]

Maintena nce 101 4 3 Turn the b alance whee l toward you until the tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of the race sh elf. 1 Shuttle race 2 Shuttle 3 Edge of the shuttle race 4 Tip of the shutt l e hook • Be sure to turn the balance w heel toward you. Turn ing the bala nce wheel a way from you may damage t he mach ine. 4 Remove the shu t[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 102 Troubleshoo ting If the ma chine stops opera ting correctly, check the follo wing possible prob lems before requ esting service. If the prob lem persists, c[...]

Troublesho oting 103 4 The upp er thread b reaks. The up per thread was not th readed correct ly (for example, the spool is not inst alled correctly, the spo ol cap is to o big for t he sp ool being used , or the thread has come out of the nee - dle ba r thread hook ). Corr ect the upp er thread ing. page 18 There a re knots or tangl es in the thre[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 104 The fab ric is wrinkl ed. The up per thread was not th readed correct ly, or the bob bin is incor- rectly installe d. Correctly thread the upp er thread and[...]

Troublesho oting 105 4 The fab ric does not feed . The fe ed dogs are lo wered. Slide t he drop feed lever to the le ft. page 83 The stitc h is too fine. Lengt hen the stitch len gth. page 52 The presser fo ot that is used is not appro pria te fo r the t ype of s titc h tha t you wish to sew. Attach t he presser foot that is appro- priat e for the [...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 106 Error me ssages If the start /stop button is pre ssed before the sewin g machine is corre ctly set up or if a n operation is perf ormed incorre ctly, an er [...]

Changing the needle stop positi on 107 4 Changing the needle stop position Normall y, the sewing mac hine is set to le ave the need le in the fab ric when sewin g is stopped. Inst ead, the machine c an be set to l eave the needle raised when sew ing is stopped . 1 Turn of f the sewing machine. 2 While p ressing t he left s titch selec tion key ( ),[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ————— — 108 Index Symbol s + key ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ....... ........ ......... .. Cover E Numeri cs 3-point zigz ag stitch ...... ........ .[...]

Index 109 4 P patchwork stitchi ng ..... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ 81 piecing ..... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ .. 81 pocket c orners ... ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ 85 positioning fabric ...... ........ ........ ......... ........ ...[...]