Brother EX 660 manuel d'utilisation

ncbc_brother_cov er_Eng P ANT ONE 285 K English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-221 4 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine APPENDIX UTILITY STITCHES SEWING BASICS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE[...]

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS When us ing this mac hine, basic safety pr ecautions s hould alw ays be taken, i ncludi ng the follow ing: Read all ins tructions be fore using . DANGER - To reduce t he risk of elect ric shock: 1. The machin e should n ever be left unattend ed while pl ugged in . Always u nplug the ma chine from the el ectrical outl e[...]

1 FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this mach ine is fitted w ith a three-p in non-rewir eable BS plug then please read the following. IMPORTANT If the availa ble socket outl et is not suitab le for the plug supplied with t his equipment, it should be c ut off and an appropriate three-p in plug fitted. With a lternative plugs an a[...]

2 CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE Your machine is one of the most advanced co mpu terized househ old sewing ma chines. To fully enjoy all th e features, we suggest that you study the manu al before usi ng the machine. PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE For safe operation 1. Be sure to keep your eye on the needle wh ile sewing. Do not tou[...]

3 CONTENTS 1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACH INE ........... ................ ............................... 5 NAMES OF MACH INE PARTS AND T HEIR FUNCTION S .... ................ ................ ................ 5 The main parts ................................................................................................... .........................[...]

——————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————————— — 4 3. UTILITY STITCHES .......... ................. ................................ ................. ............ 32 OVERCASTING ST ITCHES ................[...]

5 1 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MACHINE PARTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Bobbin winder (page 11) This winds the thread onto the bo bbin for use as the lower thread. b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16) This holds the spool of thread. c Hole for extra spool pin (page 23) This holds a second spool of thread for sewing with two needles .[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 6 Needle and presser foot section a Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle thread[...]

7 1 Operation panel The operation panel, located on the front of the sewing machine, allows you to select a stitch and specify how the stitch will be sewn. a LCD (Liquid crystal display) The selected stitch ( 1 ), presser foot that should be used ( 2 ), stitch length in millimeters ( 3 ), and stitch width in millimeters ( 4 ) are displayed. b Stitc[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE —————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 8 ACCESSORIE S The follo wing accesso ries are stored in th e flat bed att achment. We have designed thes e accessories to help you be able to carry out mo s t sewing tasks. Note (For U.S.A. o [...]

9 1 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the following precautions conc erning the power supply. Power supply a Insert the plug into a wall outlet. a Main power switch b Jack/socket connector b Set the main power switch to “I”. X The sewing lamp comes on when the machine i s turned on. c To turn off the machine,[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 10 Foot controller Insert the foot controller plug into it s jack/socket on the rear side of the sewing machine. a Foot controller jack/socket When you press the foot controller do[...]

11 1 THREADING TH E MACHINE Winding the bobbin This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin. • For details on the fast bobbin winding, see page 13. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin winder shaft c Bobbin a Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin. b Pass the thread around the pre-tension disk[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 12 f While holding the end of the thread, gently press the foot controll er or press (start/ stop button) (for models equipped with the start/stop button) to wind the thread arou n[...]

13 1 ■ For models equipp ed with the fast bobbin winding system a Follow steps 1 thro ugh 2 of the procedur e in “Winding the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tensio n disk (page 11). b Place the bobbin on th e bobbin winder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch in the bobbin. a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft spring [...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 14 Memo ● When the sewing machin e is started or the handwheel is turned after wi nding the thread around the bobbin, the machine will make a clicking sound; this is not a malfun[...]

15 1 the right side (see arrow b ) until the cover clicks into place. • Replace the cover so that the end of the thread comes out from the left si de of the cover (as shown by the line in the diagram). ■ For models equipp ed with the quick-set bobbin a Raise the needle to its hi ghest position by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwi[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 16 Upper thre ading Set the upper thread and thread the needle. • For details on the needle threader, see page 17. a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel a Raise the [...]

17 1 c Pull up the spool pin as far as possible, and then put a spool of thread on this pin. d Feed the upper thread as shown in the figure on the previous page. e Make sure you guide the thread through the thread take-up lever from right to left. a Thread take-up lever f Put the thread behind the needle bar thread guide above the needle. The threa[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 18 d Fully lower the needle threader lever. X The end o f the needle threader r otates toward you an d the hook passes through the eye of the ne edle. e Catch the thread on the hoo[...]

19 1 Drawing up the lower thread a Lightly hold the end of the upper thread. a Upper thread b While holding the end of the upper thread, raise the needle eith er by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points up or by pressing (needle po sition button) (for models equipped with the needle position button[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 20 REPLACING THE NEEDLE This section provides informati on on sewing machine needles. Needle precautions Be sure to observe the fo llowing precautions concerning the handling of th[...]

21 1 Checking the needle Sewing with a bent needle is extrem ely dangerous since the needle may br eak while the machine is being operated. Before using the needle, place the flat side of the needle on a flat surface and check that the distance between the needle and the flat surface is even. a Flat side b Needle type marking ■ Correct needle a F[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 22 d Hold the needle with your lef t hand, and then use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp screw counterclockwise to remove the needle. Note ● The needle can be removed by si[...]

23 1 Sewing with a twin needle We have designed your machine so you can sew with this need le and two top threads. You can use the same color or two different colors of th read for making decorative stitches. For details on the stitches that can be sew n with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch settings” (page 52). ■ Twin needle threading a Att[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ————————————————— ——————————————————— ————————— — 24 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT Replacing the presser foot Replace the presser foot as described below. a Raise the needle by turning the handwhee l toward you (countercloc kwise) so[...]

25 1 f Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the presser foot pin snaps into the shank in the presser foot holder. a Presser foot lever X The presser foot is attached. g Raise the presser foot lever to check that the presser foot is securely attached. Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foot ho lder when cle aning the sewing m[...]

SEWING BASICS ———————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 26 2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic sewing operations are described below. Before operating the sewing machin e, read the following precautions. General sewing procedu[...]

27 2 Selecting stitching Using the stitch selection keys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine is turned on, the straight stitch ( left needle position) is selec ted. a Turn on the sewing machine. b Press (stitch selection keys). The number of the selected stitch is displayed. Press the “+” or “–” side of to increase or redu[...]

SEWING BASICS ———————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 28 Starting to sew a Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you (counterclockw ise) so that the mark on the wheel points up. (With models equipped with ([...]

29 2 k Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine , and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. a Thread cutter Memo ● When the foot controll er is plugged in, (start/stop button) cannot be used to sta rt or stop sew ing. ● When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be set so th[...]

SEWING BASICS ———————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 30 USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are describe d below. Refer to these tips when sewing your project. Trial sew[...]

31 2 ■ If thick seams are being se wn and the fabric does not feed at the begi nning of stitching Zigzag foot “J” is equipp ed with a fea ture that keeps the presser foot level. a Sewing direction a When you encounter a seam that is too thick to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot lever. b Press the black button on the left side of th[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 32 3 UTILITY STITCHES OVERCASTING STITCHES You can use the overcasting stitches to join together seams and finish th em in one operation. They ar e also useful for[...]

33 3 BASIC STITCHING Straight stitches are used for se wing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching. *Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: Reinforcemen t ***Do not use r everse stitching. Basic stitching a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. b Attach zigzag foot “J”. c Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “ Selecting stitchi[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 34 BLIND HEM STITCHING You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the stitch showin g. *Rfc.: Re[...]

35 3 BUTTONHOLE SEWING Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. *Auto Rfc.: Automati c Reinforc ement **Rfc.: Reinforcement The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1 -1/8 inch) (diameter + th ickness of the button). Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below. Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 36 The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Mark[...]

37 3 • When lowering the presser foot, do not p ush in the front of the pre sser foot, o therwise the buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct size. a Do not reduce the gap. f Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as possible. a Buttonhole lever The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. a Buttonhole lever b[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 38 ■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing buttonho les on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread. a Hook the gimp thread onto the pa rt of buttonhole fo[...]

39 3 d Place a button between the presser foot and the fabric. • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so that the needle g o es into the two holes toward the rear of the sewing machine, and then sew them in the same way. e Select a stitch . (With models not provided with stitch , select [...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 40 ZIPPER INSERTION You can use the zipper foot to sew differ ent types of zippers, and can easily positi on it to the right or left side of the needle. When sewin[...]

41 3 SEWING STRETCH FABRI CS AND ELASTIC TAPE Stretch fabrics can be sewn a nd elastic tape can be attached. *Rfc.: Reinforcement Observe the corresponding precautions when performi ng each of the following stitching operations. Stretch stitching a Attach zigzag foot “J”. b Select stitch . c Sew the fabric without stretching it. Elastic attachi[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 42 APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK AND QUILT STITCHING The stitches that can be used for sewing app liqués, patchwork and quilts are descri bed below. *Rfc.: Reinforcement *[...]

43 3 d Carefully sew around the edge of the design. e Cut away any fabric that is left outside the stitc hing. f Remove the basting, if necessary. Memo ● Make reinforcing straight stitches at the beginning and the end of stitching. Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching a Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower piece. b Se[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 44 Quilting Sandwiching batting betw een the top and bottom layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Qu ilts can easily be sewn using the option al walking foot [...]

45 3 Free-motion quilting With free-motion quilting, the feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position leve r) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any direction. The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. a Remove the presser foot and the presser foot holder. • For details, refer to “Removing the presser foot h[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 46 REINFORCEMENT STITCHING Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve hol es, inseams and pocket corners. *Rfc.: Reinforcement **Auto Rf c.: A[...]

47 3 c Select stitch . d Position the fa bric so that the opening of the pocket faces toward you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening. a 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. • When lowering the presser foot, do not p ush in the [...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 48 DECORATIVE STITCHING Various decorative stit ches can be sewn with this sewing machine. *Rfc.: Reinforcement Stitch Name Pattern Presse r Foot Pattern No. Appli[...]

49 3 Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It is used on blouses and child ren's clothing. This stitch is more decorative when thicker thread is used. a Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric along their seams. b Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by about 4.0 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a sheet o[...]

UTILITY STITCHES —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— —— — 50 Smocking The decorative stitch creat ed by stitching or embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is used to decorate th e fr ont of blouses or cuf[...]

51 3 e Unfold the fabr ic, and then iron the tucks down to one side . Joining Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the seam allowance of joined fa brics. This is used wh en making a crazy quilt. a Attach zigzag foot “J”. b Sew together the right sides of the two pieces of fabric, and then open up the seam allowances. a Wrong side of fa[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 52 4 APPENDIX STITCH SETTINGS Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are list ed for utility stitches in the following ta[...]

53 4 Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pattern No. Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch ing 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Auto Manual Auto Manual Blind hem stitch R 0 90 90 9 0 9 Blind hem stitching on medium weight fa brics 0[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 54 Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pattern No. Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement S[...]

55 4 Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pattern No. Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Twin Needle Walking Foot Reverse/ Reinforcement Stitch ing 70 stitches model 60 stitches model 50 stitches model 40 stitches model Auto Manual Auto Manual Appliqué stitch (for quilting) J4 1 4 1 - - Attaching appliqués and binding 1.[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 56 *Rfc.: Reinforcement **Select a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) or less. Stitch Name Pattern Presser Foot Pattern No. Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] [...]

57 4 MAINTENANCE Simple sewing machine maintenan ce operations are described below. Cleaning the machine surface If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in neutral detergen t, squeeze it out firmly, and then wipe the surface of th e machine. After cleaning it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry cloth. Cleaning the b[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 58 e Remove the bobbin case. Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out. a Bobbin case f Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove any dust from the r[...]

59 4 TROUBLESHOOTING If the machine stops working properly, check the followin g possible problems. If the problem it st ill there, contact your re tailer or the nea rest authorised service center. Symptom Possible cause How to put it right Refe rence The sewing machine does not work. The machine is not plugged in. Plug the machine in. page 9 The m[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 60 The upper thread breaks. You have not inserted the needle properly. Insert the needle properly . page 21 The area around the hole in the nee- dle plate is scra[...]

61 4 Stitches are skipped. You have not threaded the upper thread properly. Correct the upper threading. page 16 You have not used the right combi- nation of fabric, thread and needle. Choose a thread and needle that are appropriate for the type of fabric. page 20 The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 21 You have not inserted the ne[...]

APPENDIX —————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————— — 62 ERROR MESSAGES If an operation is performed incorrectly before the se wing machine is set up, an error message appears on the operation panel. Follow the inst [...]

63 4 i INDEX Numerics 3-point zigzag stitch ....................................................... 32 A accessories ....................................................................... 8 appliqués ................................................................. ...... 42 B bar tack .............................................................[...]

——————————————————— ——————————————————— ——————————————— ————————— — 64 T thick fabrics.................... ................................................ 30 thin fabrics .......................................... .........[...]

2000_cover2-3.fm Pa ge 2 Monday, October 4, 2004 4:02 PM[...]