Pfaff 90 manuel d'utilisation

[...]

CPFAFFD® 90 INSTRUCTIONS FOREWORD Your dream has come true! You are now the proud owner of a Pfaff 90, the sewing machine which will enable you to master all ordinary sewing, ornamental stitching and darning jobs that may come up in a home. This instruction book will help you understand the machine and give you valuable tips to make sewing more fu[...]

2 1 Foce cover 2 Take-up lever 3 Thread retainer 4 Spool pins 5 Stitch width dial 6 Needle position lever 7 Bobbin winder 8 Balance wheel 9 Stop motion knob 10 Stitch length control 11 Reverse feed control 12 Bed slide 13 PFAFF rotary sewing hook GR 022 14 Dual-purpose needle plate 15 Sewing foot thumb screw 16 Light switch 17 Needle thread tension[...]

GR 050 • The machine will feed the material under the sewing foot auto matically. All you have to do is guide the work. • Always bring take-up lever to its highest position before you begin . and after you have completed a seam. 9un?amentats c6 /t’tathine Qji2aticii • Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel, turn it toward you (counter-[...]

R 8218A cj’taEe cxtensicn To enlarge the sewing orea of portable machines, an extension may be attached to the left side of the bedplafe. This extension is kept on the left of the carrying case. I I Cj,ratitn t’t Engaging the Sewing Mechanism .4 Hold balance wheel and turn stop motion knob clockwise. Disengaging the Sewing Mechanism Hold balanc[...]

Mecanismo pam despegue del motor En su mOquina, a Ia derecha, par debajo del volante de maniobro, se encuentro una palanca, que debe de girarse hacia abojo, sobre to marco de punto. En tot formo, viene a colocarse el motor en posiciOn de servtcio. En casos de no usor to mâquina por tiempos proiongodos, conviene despegar et motor otra vez y ponerto[...]

Moeorabhebevorrkhtung An Hirer Maschine ist rechis unter dem Handrod em Heb: angebracht, den Sie vor dem Ndhen nach unten zii der Punkimarke drehen. Dodurch befindet sich der Motor in Arbeits stellung. Bei langerer Unterbrechung lhrer Nâharbeit heben Sie den Hebel wieder on. Der Motor befindet sich’dann in Ruhestellung. fri dieser Loge können S[...]

‘cw t’iO? Push plug 1 into wall outlet and plug 2 into receptacle 3 on foot control. Foot Drive Push sewlight plug into wall outlet. Mount driving belt. To switch on sewlight, push button on face cover. Before you drop the machine remove the belt from the stand wheel, pulling it to the right. Foot Control Place the foot control under the cabine[...]

GR 018 4 For straight-stitch sewing set: Dial A — 0 Lever B — Center Control 6 regulates the stitch length. For detailed instructions please refer to page 18. To backtack the end of a seam, simply depress the finger-tip control. 6 GROO9A[...]

GR 052 ip4 9 $ivinj If you want to switch from straight (A on ,,O”) to zigzag stitching, turn dial A to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 4). Lever B changes the position of the needle in the needle plate slot. Thus the stitching can be moved from the center to the left or right of the slot, as desired. Control G lengthens zig zag s[...]

GR 014 7?.euIooinfJ the 73c66iui Ca.ce The needle has to clear the needle-plate. Lift front end of bed slrde and pull. Lift latch k with the thumb of your left hand and pull out bobbin case with bobbin. When you release the latch, the bobbin drops out. GROI3 8[...]

— - nil tOmn?tnj th 73c66in Disengage the sewing mechanism (see page 4) and flick presser bar lifter to highest position. Raise the spool pins to the vertical position. Place spool of thread on one of the spooi pins and set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that the key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin. Thread retainer with two holes: Pu[...]

a 9uU 73c66í, inic ?t’ 66 in Ca.c 0 As shown in illustration 1, hold bobbin in left hand so that the thread end falls from the top down toward you, and insert bobbin into bobbin case. - Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin case and pull the thread into the case slot. Pull the thread under the tension spring until it emerges from the opening at t[...]

.Dns2rtmnf7 he 3c66in Ca52 Raise take-up lever to its highest point and lift the latch with the thumb and forefinger of your right hond. Turn bobbin case until slot points up (see arrow). Place bobbin case on center stud s of hook. In replacing the bobbin case, it is •best to hold the loose end of thread so that it will not get jammed between bob[...]

usie /1 an 3 ‘7ha? The appearance of the finished seam is dependent on the correct relationship between needle, thread and fabric. Select the proper thread sizes and needles from this chart. The same size threads should be used in the needle and an the bdbbin. Some experienced seamstresses prefer a somewhat thinner bobbin thread. How ever, the bo[...]

£Juicttwt 9acLc a6,t4t /?tc On Pfaff 90 sewing machines, System 130 R, flotshank needles are usd for oil ordinary sewing ond embroidery work. The last column in the chart on page 12 gives you the needle size required for the material in hand. Genuine Pfaff needles, System 130 R, are available from every Pfaff dealer. Bent or blunt needles should n[...]

Urni (haIn 9 Place spool of thread on one of the spool pins 1 and lead thread end through both thread retainer openings 2. Lead thread clockwise around tension and pull it between any two of the tension discs 3. Make sure that the presser bar lifter is at its top position II (see page 21). Bring take-up lever 4 as high as it will go and pass thread[...]

[...]

I. w OR 046 Za,in 9 U tk 73i’66mn Ci,e ‘Zeniu,n 7c 9 u(aacn Balanced tensions ore essential for sewing. If your tension is correct, you will have perfect seams as sketched below (Ill). Sketch I — The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric. Cause: Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight. Sketch II — The threads interlock[...]

79u1atis19 th ‘7ha ‘7nietn The bobbin thread tension has been set for a medium grade and need not be adjusted for all ordinary sewing operations. If a special sewing operation should require a looser or tighter tension, turn the small knurled screw on the bobbin case with the tip of your thumb as fol lov,s: Turn it left --E — for looser tensi[...]

$atch nh 7fp4tatiin The stitch length control sees to regulate the stitch length and to limit it in sewing backwards. Numbers 0 to 9 on the control indicate the stitch length {the higher the number, the longer the stitch). When the control is set on “0”, the ‘ machine ceases feeding, the longest stitch is obtained by setting the control on ?[...]

ChanfJmn7 th Lift both needle and presser bar to their highest positions and turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left. Tilt the foot sideways and pull it down — —— Reverse procedure to slip on new foot and tighten screw b securely 19 1 GR 043[...]

eraIn, /tt,tl 1 41ahine A Turn needle plate half a turn so that raised portion is at the front (see illustration) and replace. Press down stud and replace bed slide. Thread the needle with doming wool and flick presser bar lifter to position I (see page 21). Remove the sewing foot and the bed slide. Lift front end of needle plate and tilt out. 20 G[...]

7 anin 9 Remove the sewing foot. Attoch darning foot No. 847 610 from the rear. Hold spring cli.p c so that ii is behind the needle set screw, and tighten screw b. If your sewing machine has a presser bar lifter with only position II, use darning foot No. 93-100154-91. When the presser bar lifter is flicked to position I, the presser bar is raised [...]

Cate 4I1 1 4 aintena,ice Longevity and smooth machine performance are dependent on regular and proper cleaning and oiling. Use Pfaff sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate machine with animal or vegetable oils. All moving and rotating ports require regular lubrication. Begin under the bedplate. If you hove a portable machine, tilt it back, loosen[...]

There are two openings in the rim of the stitch width dial, one on the left and the other at the back (see arrows). These openings ore the oil holes of the zigzag mechanism. Do not lubricate the bobbin winder. The raceway in the sewing hook is the most important oiling point. Put one drop of oil into the raceway each day you sew (see picture at lop[...]

GR 024 Ckanjij th bifjht 7 3u1 6 The built-in 15-watt sewing light illuminates the area of stitching perfectly. To change the light bulb, remove the face cover, push the bulb into its socket, turn left, and pull out. When inserting sew light bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into socket slots. Press bulb in cpd turn right. V 7iicoIn tk ac Cco To cha[...]

‘ 7 Y14 6 1e $h,ctt 111 1. Machine Skips Stitches Cause: Remedy: Needle incorrectly inserted. Push needle up as far as it will go and be sure that the long groove faces toward you, and flat side of shank away from you. Wrong needle. Choose the correct needle from chart on page 12. (For ordinary sewing, use System 130 R needles.) Needle bent. Inse[...]

3. Needle Breaks Cause: Bent needle strikes point of sewing hook. Needle too thin or thread too heavy. Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes needle plate. Bobbin case inserted incorrectly. 4. Faulty Stitch Formalion Cause: Improper tension. Thread too heavy, knotty or hard. Bobbin unevenly wound. Pieces of thread between tension discs. 5. Mac[...]

6. Machine Works Heavily Cause: Remedy: Hocyk raceway lacks oil or is obstructed by Clean and oil hook raceway. pieces of thread. Mechanism clogged by inferior oil. Use only Pfaff sewing machine oil — never salad oil or glycerine. Bobbin winder working while sewing. Stop bobbin winder. Thread Jamming The new PFAFF rotary hook will not normally ja[...]

Zipper Insertion Machine Setting: A—0 B—i. 8476OO Pin or baste closed zipper on wrong side of fabric. Position of zipper de- pends on whether or not you want the edge of the fabric to overlap the zip per. Turn fabric to right side. Run a straight seam close to left edge of zipper, stitch across end and up the other side in one continuous operat[...]

Flat Felled Seams Machine Setting: A —0 or 2 B — Flat felled seams ore used to durobly join two pieces of fobric. They ore mode in two operotions. Flat felled seoms usually are straight-stitched. Norrow zigzag stitches are used for felling on elosticized fobrics only. First Seam Lay pieces together with the wrong sides facing and the bottom pie[...]

I I 847 551 Hemming Machine Setting: A—O or 2 to 3 The hemmer foot is indispensabte if you wont to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric you are using. Clip off the corner of the fabric to facilitate insertion into the hemmer foot curl. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in line with the[...]

838 954 Overcasting Edges Machine Setting: A—2 to 4 B—. 4 Overcasting prevents froyed edqes. Use a long wide zigzag stitch and sew edge with the needle taking one stitch into the fabric and the other over its edge (normal tension setting). You may overcast edges after fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined. 838 954 Machine Setting: A -?[...]

Inserting Patches Machine Setting; A—4 Large holes con be patched quickly. The follqwing method may par ticularly be used for jersey fabrics. Cut patch square or rectangular so that the grain will match the rest of the fabric. Place the patch over the damaged area. Sew it down with a wide zigzag stitch of medium length. For additional strength st[...]

Machine Setting Applique Work A__11J to 2 . 8—4. Applique is easy and modern. Trace design on wrong side of fabric and baste a piece of contrasting material to right side. Outline design on wrong side with a narrow zigzag stitch—and the motive will appear on right side. Trim excess material close to the seam and sew over edges of applique with [...]

838 954 Straight-Stitch Hemstitching Machine Setting: A—C Stitch Length: 2—4 .4 Insert twin hemstitching needle, System 130 Zwi-Ho, as instructed on page 13, Turn out needle set screw a little further than for ordinary needles. The thread size, threading procedure and thread tension are the same as for cording work (see page 4!). Beautiful hems[...]

847 608 Button Sewing Don’t be afraid to sew on buttons, hooks, eyes or rings with your PFAFF. The needle wont break and the threads will not get loose either. The latter may happen only with ready-made clothing sewn with a chain stitch. It won’t be worthwile to take the machine out for sewing on a single button, but you will appreciate this fe[...]

GR 034 Attach buttonhole foot No. 847 616 and set sLide on buttonhole gouge. to buttonhole length desired. The buttonhole is the right length when beginning of first seam reaches red end of slide indicator (see arrow). When you follow the procedure on the opposite page, the bartacks at each end of your buttonhole will be twice as wide as a buttorho[...]

InstructionsforButtonholing Sew first side over a filler cord. When beginning of seam reaches red end of slide indicator on buttonhole gauge, it is the right length. Leave needle in fabric on right side of its throw. 2 Lift foot, turn fabric around clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, pull filler cord taut an[...]

Thin Spots Remember thot “a stitch in time saves nine” and reinforce spots that have worn thin with short stitches made lengthwise and across worn section. If fabric is clamped into darning hoops, move it under the needle with both hands. Long rips may be darned with the normal sewing foot and without hoops. Set needle plate in its normal, or s[...]

Machine Setting: A —3 to 4 B —. 4 Prepare machine as far darning. Script letters are best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be held taut in the hoops and the presser bar lifter lower[...]

Cording Machine Setting: A—fl B—i To cord on your Pfaff 90, use a cording foot and o twin needle. - Twin needles ore available for needle distances of 1.2 (3/64”), 1.6 (1/16”), 1.8, 2.0 (5/64”), 2.5 (332”), 3.0, and 4,0 (5/32”) millimeters. Cording feet are available in three varieties, as follows: Pin tucks are made with cording foot[...]

Turn sewing foot thumb screw b to the left and take out the sewing foot. Slip on cording foot ond tighten screw b securely. It is best to turn out screw I, completely if you want to slip on a cording foot with the guide attached. Thread Size Pin tucks and narrow cording are made with a No. 50 embroidery thread, wider cording with sewing silk in the[...]

GR 058 Spacing between Tucks To ensure uniform spacing between parallel tucks, place the preceding seam into one of the grooves of the foot and use it as a guide. For a larger spacing between tucks, use the adjustable guide (see ill on page 41) which is part of every cording foot. Various Cording Effects Attractive cording effects may be obtained b[...]

GR 059 _838 954 Ornamental Sewing You con make exciting fashion stitch designs by alternating straight and zigzag stitching, varying stitch length, stitch width or needle position by hand. This will be easy after you have hod sufficient pratice. Some of the designs you can make are illustrated below. For ornamental sewing, use zigzag sewing foot No[...]

Foreword Essential Parts Fundamentals of Machine Operation Operation of Your Sewing Machine Bedplate Extension Power and Foot Drive Straight Stitching Zigzag Sewing Removing the Bobbin Case Winding the Bobbin Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing[...]

Pfciff Ironers Th System Ironrite Incorporating the latest technological ad vances, these machines are ideal for every modern home because they make ironing- day drudgery a matter of the past. With the Pfaff Ironers you can iron your household wash three times as fast as before. And what is more, you work while you are seated, holding your arms in [...]

z 0 0 0 U, ‘2 0’ I’.) ‘0 ‘II TI -o it 0 3 a ‘2[...]