Singer Professional 5 manuel d'utilisation

14T968DC Instruction Book[...]

SINGER is a registered trademark of The Singer Company Limited or its af filiates. ©2008 The Singer Company Limited or its af filiates. All rights reserved. 14T968DC This SINGER sewing machine, model 14T968DC,[...]

IMPORT ANT SAFETY INSTR UCTIONS When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following. Read all instructions before using the machine. * The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. * Always u[...]

* Do not use outdoors. * Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. * Do not allow to be used as a toy . Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children. * Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly . Also, do not keep it in a very warm or[...]

T ABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Selection stitches & Auto tension.............................. 2. Handy Reference Chart............................................ 3. Accessories.............................................................. 4. Needle Information................................................... 5. Principal Parts.......................[...]

1. SELECTION OF STIT CHES & A UTO TENSION Seams also can be sewn at desired A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped) seams overedging and seaming on common stitching with decorative thread. Also, Mock Safety such as tricot and spandex. Stretch Mock for medium to heavyweight stretchy This machine is capable of pr[...]

6 Stitch T ype Reference Page 8. Four-thread Safety Stitch made up of combined 2-thread overedge and double chainstitch. 47 9. Five-thread The 5-thread stitch is a safety stitch Safety Stitch made up of combined 3-thread Wide overlock and double chainstitch. 48 A wide seam is formed by using left needle. Overedge and seaming can be done in one oper[...]

* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread and 3-thread standard width 4 mm overedge an da6m m wide overedge seams. Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge seam width adjustment knob. (See page ) 31 Overedge width 4.0 mm 6.0 mm Needle used Overedge rig[...]

Stitch T ype Correct Threading / T ension Path: When using the Auto T ension Dial (A TD), the correct tension is set automatically . *When option 2, 3, 6, 8 selected, use spreader . *When option 1, 1 1, 12, 13 selected, turn upper knife down, move seam width finger knob to setting R, and change looper cover attached cover (A) into (B). *Auto tensio[...]

1 2 3 4 5 6 78 9 10 11 12 Accessories are contained in the accessory case 1. Screw driver (large size) 2. Knife (stationary) 3. Thread Unwinder spool cap 4. Anti-spill net 5. Oiler 6. Allen Screw driver (small) 7. T weezers 8. Needle set 9. Brush 10. Cone Adapters 1 1. W aste tray 12. Machine cover This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle [...]

1. Thread guides and holder 2. Handle 8. Needle plate 9. Cloth plate 10. Looper cover 1 1. Power & light switch 12. Stitch length dial 13. Hand wheel 14. Spool stand 15. Cone adaptor 16. Spool pin 17. W aste tray 10 1 . Auto tension dial 8 3. Left needle thread tension fine tuning lever (orange) 4. Right needle thread tension fine tuning lever [...]

19 20 21 22 19. Presser bar lifter and tension release 20. Differential feed adjusting dial 21. Cutting width dial 22. Presser foot pressure adjusting dial 11 PRINCIP AL P ARTS[...]

ON OFF 2 1 Be sure to turn off power switch. Push the cover to the right as far as it will go. Pull cover down toward you. Be sure looper cover is closed when sewing. 1. Upper looper 2. Moveable Upper knife 3. Presser foot 4. Fixed position lower knife 5. Lower looper 6. Chain/Cover looper 7. Rolled Hem lever 8. Spreader 9. Upper looper clutch Conn[...]

3 2 1 This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). T o reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way . If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug[...]

14 10. PREP ARA TION FOR THREADING When using synthetic threads that easily spill off the cone, slip the anti-spill net furnished with the machine over the thread from the bottom of the cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the top of the anti-spill net as shown on illustration. T ake out the thread guide from the top of Styrofoam, and insert[...]

11. HOW T O REMO VE AND INSERT NEEDLES B T o loosen T o tighten C Flat surface to the rear B B D E A A B C E D C E D D A 15 T urn the hand wheel toward you until the needles are at their highest position. Place a thick piece of fabric [such as felt] under the presser foot. Lower the needles halfway into the fabric. Loosen, but do not remove the nee[...]

16 Chain stitch Overlock 12. THREADING THE MACHINE A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for quick reference. Thread the machine in the order 1 to 5 as shown. Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover for Overlock and Chain stitching as shown. A color coded threading diagram is located inside the looper cover for[...]

C L Caution: Be sure to turn off power switch. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated. While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in betwee[...]

Raise Presser foot by lowering presser bar lifter to release T ension discs. 18 Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the right side of button as illustrated. Thread the lower looper as indicated 1~10. Thread the looper area of the machine following the green colo[...]

C 10 B A 9 D 5 8 7 4 6 9 7 8 6 10 5 4 3 3 19 Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back. Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread. Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader . Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull Threader lever (C) up into place (D). T urn the hand wheel toward you until the lower looper extends out 5~10mm from the need[...]

3 3 9 10 11 8 1 7 5 6 4 3 2 1 2 2 3) Threading the (Brown) Chain Stitch/Cover stitch Looper 20 While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. Thread the chain stitch/cover stitch looper as indicated 1~1 1. Thread the top cover thread gu[...]

9 2 7 5 8 6 4 3 1 10 1 1 8 7 9 6 4 5 C A B D 21 Thread the right needle as indicated 1~9. T urn the hand wheel toward you until the chain stitch looper extends out 10mm from the needle plate edge. Thread the looper area of the machine following the brown color-coded thread guides 4~1 1. Place the thread with the point of the tweezers through thread[...]

9 5 8 6 7 4 3 3 2 2 1 22 Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. While holding thread with finger , pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread guide 5 and the slo[...]

3 2 1 9 7 8 5 6 2 4 1 2 9 5) Threading the (Orange) Chain Stitch Needle (D on needle clamp) 23 Thread the eye of the right needle 9. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy . The position of the thread must be behind the thread guide. Draw about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through needle eye towards the rear of [...]

4 9 9 8 7 6 5 3 3 24 While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. Thread the eye of the left needle 9. Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will make needle eye threading easy . The position of the thread must be behind the the[...]

3 2 3 2 7 1 9 8 5 6 1 4 3 2 (1) Threading the Cover Stitch Left Needle 25 While holding thread with finger , pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thre[...]

4 5 8 9 7 6 3 2 9 1 8 9 7 6 4 5 (2) Threading the Cover Stitch Middle / Chain Stitch 26 Needle (Blue) (D on needle clamp) Thread the cover stitch middle / chain stitch needle as indicated 1~9. Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slide thread into front slot on thread guide 5 and slot of take-up lever cover 6. Then slip thread into left slots of th[...]

9 8 6 7 3 4 5 3 2 2 1 27 While holding thread with fingers, pass it between the tension discs and pull thread down to make certain it is properly located in between the tension discs 3. Continue to thread points 4~8. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the le[...]

2 2 1 9 6 7 8 5 4 3 2 1 9 (3) Threading the Cover Stitch Right Needle (Green) (E on needle clamp) 28 Thread the cover stitch right needle as indicated 1-9. Pass thread from back to the front through the thread guide 1. Thread the top cover thread guide by pulling the thread towards the left until it slips under guide. Then pull thread along the rig[...]

9 8 9 4 5 7 6 3 3 29 Continue to thread points 4~8. Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on thread guides 5. Slip the thread into the slot of the T ake-up Lever Cover 6. Slip the thread into the right slots for thread guides 7 and 8. Before threading eye of needle, make sure thread is in front of thread guide located on the bottom of the needle cla[...]

30 T o change thread type or color, clip thread near the spool. Place new thread on stand. T ie new thread and old thread ends together with a square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch) length. If clipped too short, threads may come untied. Firmly pull both thread to test knot security . Raise Presser foot to release T ension discs. by loweri[...]

(3/8") 9.8 mm needle 7.8 mm Chain stitch (5/16") Left needle (13/64") 7m m (17/64") 5m m Right needle 3m m (1/8") 5m m (3/16") needle 8.8 mm Chain stitch (1 1/32") (10/64") (15/64") Left needle Right needle 6.0 mm 4.0 mm 31 The stitch length dial should be set on the N setting for most sewing conditions.[...]

5 6.5 N 5.5 4 N 2 1 32 As shown on the illustration, turn the dial counter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and clockwise to decrease width of cutting. The presser foot pressure of this machine is pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of medium weight fabrics. Most of the materials do not require adjustment of presser foot pressure.[...]

33 Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or "gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed. The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0. Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed adjusting dial pictured at right. Use of differential feed [...]

N 0.8 0.6 2.0 1.5 34 Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and woven fabrics. Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above setting "N". T o sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the presser foot. Note: *if amount of &[...]

2 1 2 1 Caution: Caution: 35 Open looper cover (page 12). Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. T urn the holder toward counter clockwise until the knife clicks into a lock position. Be sure to turn off power switch. Open looper cover . Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as it will go. T urn the holder cloc[...]

36 T o engage the spread , raise the white handle on the spreader to insert the tip into the er eye of upper looper . When not threading the upper looper , the spreader must be engaged into the upper looper eye. When using the upper looper , the spread must be er disengaged. Be sure to turn off power switch. T o disengage the spreader, lower the wh[...]

R N R N 37 Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam width finger to standard overedge sewing position. Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam width finger and set it for rolled hem. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as it will go in the direction of setting R. Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far as[...]

38 Note: The following instructions do not apply to cover stitch. For instructions on cover stitch, see page 49 "How to Sew a Cover Stitch." When the machine is completely threaded, bring all of the threads across the needle plate and slightly to the left under the presser foot. Hold the threads and apply a slight tension. T urn the hand [...]

39 T ension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto T ension Dial (A TD). T ension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) T ype and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread * Stitch length for double chain stitch should be set at ov[...]

1 2 3 4 25mm (1") 25 34 6 2 (A) 1 (B) Knife cover Seam guide plate Chain stitch needle 40 The double chain stitch is sewn with 2 threads, one needle and one looper . Normally , the machine trims the fabric edge while the seam is being sewn. However , a chain stitch seam can be placed at a desired distance from edge of fabric by putting the kni[...]

Underside Lower looper thread Needle thread T opside Red Underside Underside Lower looper thread Needle thread T opside Orange Medium weight Fabric Spreader T ension Dial Blue Green Brown Lower looper thread Needle thread SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB STITCH LENGTH T opside SPREADER USE 2~4 N Medium weight Fabric Green T ension Dial Spreader Orange Blue R[...]

Underside Underside Underside Needle thread Lower looper thread Needle thread Lower looper thread T opside Needle thread T opside Lower looper thread T opside STITCH LENGTH SPREADER NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB USE N 2~4 Spreader Fabric Medium weight T ension Dial Green Orange Blue Red Brown 42 Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illus[...]

Needle thread Needle thread Underside T opside Underside Lower looper thread Lower looper thread Upper looper thread T opside Fabric Medium weight Needle thread Underside Lower looper thread Upper looper thread Upper looper thread T opside T ension Dial Green Orange Blue Red Brown STITCH LENGTH SPREADER Needle thread NEEDLE POSITION SEAM WIDTH FING[...]

Needle thread Upper looper thread Needle thread Upper looper thread T opside Underside Lower looper thread T opside Underside Needle thread Lower looper thread Needle thread Fabric Medium weight Needle thread T opside Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Needle thread Underside Green T ension Dial Orange Blue Red Brown STITCH LENGTH Upper looper[...]

45 Set auto tension dial to G as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. When the lower looper thread tension is too loose; -Move the lower looper thread tension lever (red) fine tuning toward a higher . position When the left needle thread tension is too loose; - the left needle thread tension (orange) Move fine tuning lever[...]

T ension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto T ension Dial (A TD). T ension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) T ype and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread 46 Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and tes[...]

T ension is automatically set when seiecting the desired stitch type with the Auto T ension Dial (A TD). T ension may be fine tuned with the Fine Tuning Levers according to the following variables: 1) T ype and thickness of fabric 2) Needle size 3) Size, type and fibre content of thread 47 Set auto tension dial to I as shown on illustration and tes[...]

Upper looper thread Overedge Needle thread Chain stitch needle thread Overedge Needle thread Chain stitch needle thread T opside Underside Lower looper thread Chain stitch looper thread Chain stitch looper thread T opside Underside Medium weight Overedge Needle thread Chain stitch needle thread Overedge Needle thread Chain stitch needle thread Chai[...]

Cover stitch middle needle (D) 1 () 1" 25mm 234 2 6 5 C E D A B 49 This machine can produce a 3-thread 5.6 mm wide bottom cover stitch. The cover stitch can be used for covering, binding or top-stitching necklines and for hemming the bottom, of T -shirts and sweat suits, etc. in addition to flat joining seams (plain seaming). The cover stitch [...]

50 Note: Follow the instructions given below when sewing cover stitches because chaining-off at the end of sewing is not possible. Raise presser foot by lowering the presser bar lifter . Place material under presser foot behind the needle. Lower presser foot . by raising the presser bar lifter Note: When you start to sew from the middle of the fabr[...]

looper thread Underside Cover stitch Left needle thread T opside looper thread Cover stitch Underside Underside Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch right needle thread Underside looper thread Cover stitch Cover stitch right needle thread Cover stitch T opside T opside Cover stitch Left needle thread T opside Left needle thread Cover stitc[...]

Cover stitch Underside Cover stitch middle needle thread Underside looper thread Cover stitch Cover stitch middle needle thread Underside Cover stitch looper thread middle needle thread Cover stitch looper thread Underside Cover stitch Left needle thread T opside T opside Cover stitch right needle thread Left needle thread Cover stitch right needle[...]

53 Since the seams formed by cover stitch unravel when the looper thread is pulled out at the end of sewing, secure the seam end in the following manner . When sewing through to the edge of fabric, among the threads coming out of the fabric edge, knot the needle threads (2 or 3 threads) together first, as shown on the illustration. Then, tie these [...]

54 This machine can sew four types of rolled hems. Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging the fabric edge. Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy , crepe, etc. perform the best. Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff fabrics. NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed with the overedge right needle. Remove the overedge[...]

55 Set auto tension dial to A as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper with lightweight regular thread. Set auto tension dial to C as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. T ension Dial Orange B[...]

56 Set auto tension dial to E as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of your fabric. Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight regular thread. Convert upper looper to spreader . (See page 36) Set auto tension dial to D as shown on illustration and test sew on a sample of you[...]

57 Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to keep it from curling into the seam. Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the end of the seam. Allow to dry , then cut the chain close to the stitches. Note: T est the liquid seam sealant for color fastness before use. Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing direction and a finer[...]

Lower looper thread Needle thread Underside Upper looper thread T opside Needle thread 58 A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of the 2-thread or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam. The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and decorative stitch or for ornamenta[...]

T opside Underside A 59 Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking position (page 35). The fabric is not trimmed on this stitch. Fold fabric wrong sides together . Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part of the stitch extending off the fabric. Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten. The tensions must be correctly fine tuned [...]

60 4 The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the raw edges are overlocked in one operation. The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear . It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible. Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 43) Note: The three-thread flatlock[...]

61 Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner , in line with the overedge seam edge. Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop. Raise needle and presser foot. Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough to release the thread caught on the finger of the needle plate. Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail. T urn the[...]

Seam line Cut Needle position Seam line 62 Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting action of the knives. Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a tapestry needle) with the thread chain. Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure thread. Note: T o secure a rolled h[...]

63 Inserting twill tape while overedge sewing will stabilize the seam. Insert the tape through the hole in the front of the foot. Position the tape under the foot to the back of the machine and sew the garment seam. The tape is attached as the seam is sewn. Place the movable upper knife in nonworking position. Insert filler cord such as yarn or twi[...]

D C B A 64 An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a conventional machine for two reasons: 1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action of the knives. 2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal working parts. Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often with a dry [...]

b d 0.5~1mm b c a 65 The mov able upper knife should be changed when it becomes dull. e The mov able upper knife can be replaced according e to the directions provided, however if there are any difficulties experienced, consult your Singer representative to make the replacement. Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected from the electric sou[...]

Light cover screw Replace Remove Replace Remove 66 Light bulb is available at your Singer shop. T ake old bulb to the Singer shop and ask for the same bulb. If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of your machine is 120V , ask for light bulb conforming to following specification. - Bayonet type: 1 10~120V , 15W Glass shape: T -20 Lamp c[...]

B A C 67 The following optional presser feet specially prepared for this machine are available at extra-charge. Note: Do not use presser foot made for other machines. Use of such presser foot may result in interference with the needle and knife and can be hazardous. The snap-on type presser foot of this machine permits easy removal and replacement.[...]

68 This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the garment and the amount of contraction of the elastic tape can be adjusted as required. This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt and trouser seams where seam should not be visible. This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts, et[...]

28. TROUBLESHOO TING CHART 6 9 Solution Problem Page Fabric does not feed well - Lengthen stitch length. - Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric. - Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric. Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly . - Do not pull fabric while sewing. - T ighten needle set screw . - Use a larger needle o[...]

29. RELA TIONSHIP BETWEEN CLO TH, THREAD AND NEEDLE 70 Needle Singer Cat. #2022 WOVEN Lightweight Cotton: #100 Silk/ Rayon: #100 #1 1/80 Polyester: #80 ~ #100 Medium Weight Cotton: #60 ~ #80 Silk/ Rayon: #50 #14/90, #1 1/80 Polyester: #60 ~ #80 Heavy Weight Cotton: #40 ~ #60 Silk/ Rayon: #40 ~ #60 #14/90 Polyester: #50 ~ #80 KNIT #1 1/80 Polyester:[...]

71 Item 1,300 spm maximum 1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5) 1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine) Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 9.8 mm (Standard 4 mm) T wo needles: 2.8 mm (narrow), 5.6 mm (wide) T riple needles: 5.6 mm 27 mm 4.5 mm Singer #2022 (EL x 705) #14, #1 1 2~5 Machine dimensions (mm) 36[...]

Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical /electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance.[...]

G5P21[...]