White 1599 manuel d'utilisation

Blue Jeans ‘ Machine WHITE BEWINQ MACHINE[...]

CONTENTS 1. NAMES OF PARTS 2 2. ACCESSORIES 3 3. BEFORE SEWING 4 Detaching Extension Table 4 Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord 5 Changing Needle 6 Changing Foot 7 Bobbin Winding 8 Inserting Bobbin 11 Adjusting Lower Tension 12 Drop Feed Lever 12 Threading Upper Thread 13 Twin Needle Threading 14 Decorative Tucks or Designs 14 Drawing Up Low[...]

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1. NAMES OF PARTS 1. Thread guide for bobbin winding 2. Foot pressure regulator 3. Upper thread tension dial 4. Face cover 5. Thread guide for upper threading 6. Presser foot thumb screw 7. Presser foot 8. Shuttle cover 9. Top cover 10. Bobbin winding spindle 11. Screw hole for extra spool pin 12. Zigzag width control 13. Special buttonhole adjustm[...]

2. ACCESSORIES ,— Felts (2 pcs.) Bobbins c (3 Buttonhole foot Needles Ordinary needles (3 pcs.) Button sewing foot Bail point needle (1 pc.) N ‘J ( Twin needle (1 pc.) Zipper foot Extra spool pin (For twin needle sewing). Darning foot Spool cover ( Quilting guide Oiler Cloth guide Screw drivers (small) Buttonhole cutter (large) —3—[...]

3. BEFORE SEWING Machine is stored in flat-bed style which makes your work easier for ordinary sewing. Detaching Extension Table Slide off, and the machine is used as a free-arm model. To open top cover of accessory box, push open, as illustrated. Do vice-versa of above steps to at tach extension table. Free-arm is convenient to sew or embroider; t[...]

Connecting Foot Controller and Power Cord Connect foot controller and power cord CD Before plugging in your machine, be sure that voltage is same as that of your machine (* written on a plate at back of machine) * Specifications vary from country to country. Put power switch on the machine and turn on the sewing light. b Push button to turn sewing [...]

—I —6— Changing Needle Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Loosen needle clamp screw and take out needle. With flat face away from you, insert a new needle into groove of needle bar. Push needle until it reaches stopper and tighten needle clamp screw firmly. Always use a straight needle with a sharp point. Usi[...]

Changing Foot Raise presser foot lifter. Set needle in the highest position by turning haridwheel towards you. (1) Push button of holder towards you and foot will come off. (2) Position a new foot by aligning holding groove of shank with pin of foot. (3) Lower presser foot lifter so that holder catches presser foot. Jr —7—[...]

Bobbin Winding Set needle in the highest position by turning handwheel towards you. Open shuttle cover. Open latch of bobbin case and remove case. Release latch of bobbin case and bobbin comes out easily. J —8--[...]

Push back to fold handle. Open top cover. Put a spooi on spool pin. Draw thread from spool pin through thread guide and pretension device, following numbers and, Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Wind thread clockwise around bob bin several times. Push bobbin onto spindle. Ho[...]

Push bobbin to right and press down foot controller. Machine stops automatically when bobbin is full. Push bobbin to left, to disengage from wheel. Take off bobbin from spindle and cut thread. Retighten stop motion knob. ,— trouble 4c correction If bobbin is wound unevenly as shown, open top cover and use screw driver to adjust the guide for bobb[...]

Inserting Bobbin Place bobbin in case with thread running in direction of arrow. Guide thread into slot ® of bobbin case. Pulling thread to left, bring it under tension spring then to delivery groove ) —11—[...]

Adjusting Lower Tension To test bobbin tension, hang and shake bobbin case as shown. At proper tension bobbin case will gradually drop a small amount. To adjust tension, turn adjusting screw with small screwdriver. Raise needle to highest position. Leave end of thread of about 10 cm (4”) from bobbin case. Take hold of latch and push bobbin case i[...]

Threading Upper Thread Raise presser foot. Set take-up lever to the highest po sition by turning handwheel towards you. Open top cover and put spool into spool pin. Caution: Spool should be put on spool pin in the manner of its thread being drawn from under side of spool. Thread, following numbers -®. Pass thread through guide Dthen to®. Lead thr[...]

Twin Needle Threading Extra spool pin is packed in accessory tray. Screw thread extra spool pin in screw hole, place a felt and put another spool. Thread in the same way as normal threading, except at points ®, © and ®. At point ©, pass threads separately to right and left of tension disc. At guide , pass one of threads to right guide and the o[...]

Drawing Up Lower Thread Hold the end of upper thread with left hand. Turn handwheel slowly towards you until needle moves down and up again. Pull upper thread slowly and lower thread will be brought up in a loop. Pull out both threads about 15cm (6”) and place them together under presser foot to left. NOTE: Always place thread to the back or left[...]

Fabric, Thread and Needle Table THREAD NEEDLE Cotton FABRIC REMARKS European Mercerized Covered European U.S. Size Point Polyester Cotton Cotton Silk, Nylon 705 15x1 Style VERY SHEER: LACE. Silk 70 60 65-70 9 Regular Loosen up- Voile, Chiffon, Net Nylon per tension one or two SHEER; Blouse Crepe, Silk 50-70 60 65-70 9 Regular Points Lawn, Organdy, [...]

Pattern Setting PATTERN NAME — — STRAIGHT 6 MW ZIGZAG tvWWyW 7JAULAA AAi BLIND HEM AiAJ 8 STRETCH BLIND HEM . A j — — ‘ MULTIPLE 9 ZIG ZAG V V V 10 STRAIGHT STRETCH //AV/AV/A RICK RACK 11 IIAV/AV/A OVERLOOK 12 OVERLOCK 13 BRIAR 14 L PATTERN SELECTOR 1-4 TWIN NEEDLE 4- [11] BUTTONHOLE —17—[...]

4. STRAIGHT SEWING Set machine as shown. If you need to move needle position to left side, set zigzag width control 5. Pattern Selection Dial Turn dial to choose pattern. Dial can be turned either to right or to left. * Always make sure needle is in the highest position when oper ating dial. Stitch Length Dial Set dial at indicating point ( ac cord[...]

Piace fabric under foot about 1cm (O.4) inside the edge. Lower presser foot lifter. Double Presser Foot Lifter In order to obtain wider gap when using very thick materials, firmly push presser foot lifter up as far as it will go. To reinforce seam, sew backwards to the edge of fabric by pushing down reverse sewing lever. Hold lever down for longer [...]

— . + —-;—:i— i) ‘; — — + L Cloth Guide Use cloth guide when sewing a long seam of regular distance from edge of material. Set guide in hole on arm, at right of needle plate, and adjust distance. Run machine with edge of fabric touching guide. Position cloth guide at an angle to sew a curved seam. Sew reverse stitches for reinforce me[...]

Applications at Straight Stitch A. Seams The normal stitch length for most fabrics is 3, but the length chosen should depend on the fabric and area of usage. Usually, heavier fabrics require longer stitches, and lighter weight fabrics require shorter stitches. For curved seams and bias cut areas use a shorter stitch length to add strength and elast[...]

5. ZIGZAG SEWING Set machine as shown. To prevent seam ends unravelling, set machine for straight stitch and sew in reverse at beginning and ending of seam. Zigzag Width Control Set control at required number. Larger the number, wider the stitch. Set it at 0 for straight sewing. Make sure needle is in upper posi tion when you set control, and extra[...]

6. MAKING BUTTONHOLES Set machine as shown. Determine Length Measure diameter and thickness of button and add 0.3cm (1/8”) for bar tacks. Mark buttonhole size on material. Determine Width Determine width according to di ameter of button, its thickness, and kind of material. Attach buttonhole foot. Completely push back sliding part a of buttonhole[...]

fl r___ -h1 ;-iL Bar tacking: Set pattern selection dial to 1 () and sew 5-6 stitches. Left side:Change pattern to 2(21]). Sew left side from front to back un til it reaches end line. Remember the point of arrow so that it is not necessary to mark end lines for all buttonholes. Bar tacking: Change pattern to 3 () and sew 5-6 stitches. Right side: C[...]

Buttonhole Density Adjustment Adjustment is located to right of stitch length dial. With some materials it is possible that the sides or density of a button hole will vary, it is possible to adjust or balance these sides by turning the special buttonhole adjustment to “+“ or “—“ to attain a correct balance. It is advised to always turn th[...]

Cutting Buttonholes Stick a needle or pin through bar tacks to prevent over-cutting. Cut buttonhole along center with buttonhole cutter. —26—[...]

7. SEWING ON BUTTONS Set machine as shown. Position a button and material un der foot. When needle comes to left side of stitch, lower foot. Raise needle and adjust zigzag width so that needle comes to right hole of button. Make one stitch be certain that nee dle is aligned with botton’s holes. Run machine at medium speed and sew 5-6 zigzag stitc[...]

8. OVERCASTING For light weight material: Set machine as shown. Overcasting prevents edge of fabric from fraying and produces neat finish. Sew carefully so that all stitches on right side are flush with edge of fabric. For thick and elastic material: Set machine as shown. Sew in the same way above. J / —28—[...]

9. OVERLOCKING Overlocking stitches make it possi ble to sew and overcast seams at the same time. Set machine as shown. Put two pieces of cloth together with right sides facing and sew. To prevent edges from fraying, sew so that right side stitches drop out side the edge of material. Then press flat. n some cases overlocking stitches can be used fo[...]

10. STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown are all used with stretch and knit fabrics. These are special utility stitches built in the machine for your quick selection. 10 Straight stretch 11 Rickrack briar stretch 12 Overlock stretch 13 Double overlock stretch 14 Briar stitch Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch sti[...]

Application of Rick-Rack hit ViA k Topstltching/Rlck-Rack A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. Topstitch braid or a decorative inset to add an additional creative flair. B. Tapering/Rick-Rack The rick-rack stitch may be tapered to.form creative ste[...]

Application of Decorative Fun Patterns A. Fun stitches-Briar I >>>?EJ The reverse stitch patterns produce briar designs for use on household linens and children clothes. These reverse stitch pattern can be used to sew in hems. The reverse stitch patterns can also be used for topstitching bindings and ribbons for decorative effect. This is [...]

11. BLIND HEM STITCH Set machine as shown. Fold material as shown and place under foot. For a neater finish, it is preferable to baste or iron the hem beforehand. Sew carefully, so that straight stitches are made on hem edge, and slanting stitches pierce only one or two threads of fold. n ,- —33—[...]

Correct seam. right side wrong side . Needle is catching edge of fold too much. a Needle is not catching edge of fold at all b>4 Elastic Blind Hem Stitch For elastic materials, set machine :: :r sew in the same way —34—[...]

12. STRETCH SEAM A ball-point needle is essential. Paper may be laid under knits for smoother feeding. a Medium-weight fabrics Double knit, jersey. Apply elastic triple straight stitch. b Light-weight fabrics Apply small zigzag. Reduce upper and lower thread tension. c For Very elastic fabrics Spandex (power net) Use lapped or abutted seam. Apply m[...]

13. ZIPPER SEWING Set machine as shown. Used for dresses, blouses skirts, trousers, bags, etc. By using the special zipper foot, zip per sewing can be easily done. (1) With right sides together, tack along seam line of the opening (2) Open the tacked seam and pull out the lower material O.3cm(½”). Place the folded edge over the right side of the[...]

14. SHELL STITCHING Silk, nylon organdy or similar sheer fabrics are suitable. Set machine as shown. Fold edge of material. With folded edge to left, place it under presser foot. Pull thread ends towards back when starting sewing. Adjust tension to 8 or 9 to form the shell effects. Always return the tension setting to normal when finishing the shel[...]

15. PIN TUCKING Set machine as shown. For better appearance, use sheer material and tighten lower thread a little. For twin needle threading see p.14. Insert the quilting guide under the spring plate on the holder. Mark first line with pencil or tailor’s chalk, and sew. From second line, just sew, follow ing seam of first line using guide. Interv[...]

16 QUILTING Set machine as shown. 23 Baste layers of material to prevent them from slipping out as you sew. Attach quilting guide and sew in the same way as pin tucking —39—[...]

17. MENDING Patching Set machine as shown. Place the patch over the worn part. Pull thread ends toward back or left when starting sewing. Sew along the edge of the patch on the right side. Trim away the worn part close to the seam on back side. Mending a Rip Set machine in the same way as for patching. Sew the edges of tear together first. Then sew[...]

Darning Set machine as shown. Stretch fabric over the hoop or sew with free arm ® according to the part you are going to darn. Sew over the worn-out part with closely spaced stitches, guiding material back and forth by hand. By making turning points blunt, the darned part becomes softer and more flexible. S. j — 1 —[...]

I 19. APPLIQUE WORK Set machine as shown. Draw design on material to be used as an applique and cut it out. Place cut-out on base material and baste it. Sew around outline with zigzag stitch adjusting stitch length and width according to shape and size of cut-out and type of base material. To change direction at corners, or to sew very small circle[...]

Set machine as shown. Remove foot, and holder screw. To avoid lower thread being pulled up, reduce upper thread tension. For good embroidery, it is important to use correct needles and thread. Use thin embroidery silk for upper thread and a thinner silk of same kind and color for lower thread. Trace your design on material and center it in embroide[...]

20. MAINTENANCE Your machine requires regular cleaning and oiling for satisfactory sewing performance. A machine which is used for a few hours a day needs to be cleaned and oiled once a month. / Cleaning Remove foot and needle. “ _____ Remove needle plate. Brush off all dust and lint on feed dog with cleaning brush. 4 ‘I.,’ Turn latches out[...]

Oiling Use oil manufactured especially for sewing machine use. Other oils will eventually cause mechanism to jam. Apply one drop of oil to hook where friction occurs. Replace hook and race cover care fully, turn handwheel manually to insure correct assembly. Open face cover and apply oil to points indicated with arrow. Be careful not to apply too m[...]

21. TROUBLE CHART PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Breaking lower Thread not wound evenly on the bobbin P10, P15 thread or not drawn up correctly Lower thread tension too tight P12 Lint stuck in the bobbin case and inside Remove lint the tension spring and fluff with a cleaning brush Skipping stitches Needle not fully inserted P 6 Needle bent P 6 [...]