Bernina 135 S manuale d’uso

See appendix for differ ences in the activa 135 S Patchwork Edition 135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite U2 030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN[...]

In choosing BERNINA , you are assur ed of years of rewar ding sewing . For over 100 years my family has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my personal wish to continue this tradition of offering you Swiss pr ecision engineering combined with state of the art technology and an after sales service second to no[...]

2 W ARNING T o reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy . Close attention is necessary when the sewing computer is used by or near children and infirm persons. 2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the man[...]

3 Safety instructions 16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the result of misuse of the sewing computer . 17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation. Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for Servicing of double-insulated machines. SER VICING DOUBLE- INSULA TED PRODUCTS In a double-insulate[...]

1 2 5 6 7 8 9 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 4 3 Details 4 Details of the sewing computer Front view 135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 4 030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN[...]

27 10 14 11 34 30 31 29 33 32 5 Details 1 Bobbin cover 2 Stitch plate 3 Attachment base for special accessories 4 Sewing table socket 5 Presser foot 6 Needle clamp with fixation screw 7 Thread guide 8 Thread take up cover 9 Thread path 10 Thread tension adjustment 11 Bobbin pre-tension 12 Reverse button /quick and continuous 13 Screen 14 Bobbin win[...]

36 40 4 37 39 42 43 3 2 45 Details 6 Back view 135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 6 030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN[...]

37 46 36 42 38 35 7 Details 35 Carrying handle 36 Presser foot lifter (manual) 37 Thread cutter 38 Thread take up 39 Darning ring connection 40 Accessory box connection 41 Thread tension disc 42 Rear thread guide 43 Horizontal spool pin 44 Accessory box catch 45 Needle Threader 46 Lens holder Left end Accessory box 44 Sewing computer with Accessory[...]

8 Setting up the sewing computer • foot control • instruction manual • power cable • warranty card • Accessory box • presser foot lifter Accessories Start-stop-unit** With the Start-stop-unit (SSU) the start-stop-function can be controlled by hand. • press start-stop-button A = stitching starts • with the speed regulator B the sewin[...]

Setting up the sewing computer 9 • attach the box to the sewing computer (catch A must engage); inserting the presser foot lifter into the opening H Note : first lower the presser foot lifter! Removing the accessory box • press catch A on the top of the box • remove box to the r ear Free standing accessory box • pull both feet out until the[...]

Setting up the sewing computer 10 The power cable • plug A into sewing computer • plug B into wall socket Foot control cable • plug C into sewing computer Important! (USA/Canada only) This sewing computer has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). T o re- duce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized[...]

11 Setting up the sewing computer Sewing table Increases the sewing surface. T o attach • raise the needle and presser foot • place the table over the free arm and press firmly so that it engages on the fixing cam Attaching the presser foot lifter Insert into the opening in the base plate: you should be able to operate the lifter with your knee[...]

Setting up the sewing computer 12 Winding the bobbin • turn power switch on • place empty bobbin on spindle • following the direction of the arr ow take thread thr ough the rear guide and round the pr e-tension stud • wind it several times round the empty bobbin • press the engaging lever against the bobbin • press the foot contr ol •[...]

13 Setting up the sewing computer Bobbin case T o remove the bobbin case • raise the needle • turn power switch to «0» • open the bobbin cover • grasp the latch of the bobbin case • remove case T o insert the bobbin case • hold the bobbin case latch • the finger on the case should point upwards • insert so that it clicks into plac[...]

Setting up the sewing computer 14 Inserting the bobbin ... it lies in the T -shaped slit at the end of the spring. The bobbin must turn clock- wise when thread is pulled. Insert the bobbin Insert the bobbin so that the thread runs clockwise. Pull the thread counter clock- wise into the slot. Pull the thread to the left under the spring until ... Re[...]

15 Setting up the sewing computer Changing the pr esser foot Presser foot with shank • raise the needle and • presser foot • turn power switch to «0» Attaching the presser foot • guide the foot upwards • over the cone • press the clamping lever down • raise the clamping lever • remove the pr esser foot Refer to the safety instruct[...]

S Setting up the sewing computer 16 C D E B Thr eading the upper thread • raise the needle and presser foot • turn the power switch to «0» • place spool on pin and attach the appropriate spool disc – diameter of spool = disc size • take thread thr ough rear guide A • then into slit of upper thread tension • pull thread down to the r[...]

17 Needle Threader Needle Thr eader B A Thread in hook · lower the presser foot · lay the thread behind hook B and hold lightly Lever down · press lever A down and simultaneously guide the thread ar ound hook B to the right to the needle Thread in fr ont of needle · put the thread fr om the front into the guide until it catches in the hook Rele[...]

Setting up the sewing computer 18 Bringing up the lower thr ead • hold the upper thread • sew one stitch • pull the upper thread until the bobbin thr ead appears in the stitch plate hole • pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both threads thr ough the slit in the presser foot towar ds the back • pull threads over the cutter Note:[...]

19 Setting up the sewing computer Stitch plate Stitch plate markings • the stitch plate is marked with seam guide lines in mm and inches • the millimetre markings ar e at the front • the inch markings are at the back • the measurements show the distance (with needle position centr e) from needle to line • lines are pr ovided to the right [...]

Setting up the sewing computer 20 3 5 A Thr ead tension The basic setting • is indicated when the red line on the tension adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A • the tension does not need adjusting for normal sewing work • for special sewing work, the tension can be adjusted to suit the fabric T o reduce the tension turn to between 3[...]

21 Operating instructions 0 23 45 1 5.5 1 2 3 4 5 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 General instructions Main switch to 1 • the sewing sewing computer is ready to sew The screen shows 1 stitch width basic setting blinks constantly 2 stitch length basic setting blinks constantly 3 needle position (9 positions) 4 needle stop up/down (generally up) 5 stitch number 1 (s[...]

Operating instructions 22 Stitch width • left button = narrow the stitch width • right button = widen the stitch width • the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly Needle position • left button = needle to the left • right button = needle to the right Stitch length • left button = shorten the stitch length • right button[...]

23 Operating instructions Reverse sewing quick reverse: • press button • Sewing computer sews reverse until button is released (max. stitch length 3 mm) Applications: • programming buttonholes • programming darning program • switch to straight stitch securing program (stitch No. 5) • manual securing (seam begin and end) continous revers[...]

Operating instructions 24 clr/del (clear/delete) • press button = r everts to basic settings • other selected functions are clear ed Exceptions : • needle stop down • 1/2 speed • altered basic settings for buttonholes = press «clr/del»-button twice Letters, numbers and punctuation marks (only activa 145 S) • press the alphabet button [...]

25 Operating instructions mem 0 23 4 5 1 5.5 1 2 3 4 5 0 Memory Any combination of 30 stitches, letters or numbers can be saved in Memory , which is long term. They remain saved until deleted by the user . Power failures or disconnection from the electricity Memory buttons • press left button (<) to scr oll contents backwards • press centr e[...]

Operating instructions 26 mem 0 23 4 5 1 5.5 1 2 3 4 5 0 mem 0 23 4 5 1 5.5 1 2 3 4 5 0 Programming practical and decorative stitches • open Memory (p. 25) • select stitch (p. 22) • stitch number appears on the screen (her e 21) • press «mem + » to pr ogram (save) • the number of remaining empty memories (here 29) and the cursor blink ?[...]

27 Operating instructions Corrections in Memory Changing individual stitches, letters and numbers • scroll with the right or left button to find the stitch you want to change or correct • then correct or change: stitch letter number stitch length or width needle position etc. • press «mem + » to save the change(s) Delete single stitch, lett[...]

Operating instructions 28 0 23 4 5 1 5.5 1 2 3 4 5 0 Leave Memory • press «mem»-button = contents are saved • Memory is closed «mem»-symbol disappears from the screen The contents of the memory remain saved even when the sewing computer is dis- connected from the electricity supply . They can be recalled at any time. The contents of the mem[...]

29 Operating instructions Balance Note: If the balance has been adjusted, return it to the normal setting once sewing is completed. Y our sewing computer has been tested and factory set using a double layer of cretonne fabric and Metr osene 100/2 threads (Ar ova Mettler , Switzerland). Applications: Practical stitches, e.g. Honeycomb stitch on jers[...]

Stitches 30 Stitches * Practical and decorative 1 Straight stitch 2 Zig-zag 3 V ari-overlock 4 Running stitch 5 Securing stitch 6 T riple straight and zig-zag 7 Blind stitch 8 Double overlock 9 Super stretch stitch 10 Standard buttonhole 11 Keyhole buttonhole 12 Straight stitch buttonhole 13 Button sewing-on pr ogram 14 Darning program 15 Basting s[...]

31 Stitches Stitch selection* All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinfor cing seams All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end o[...]

Stitches 32 14 11 10 19 Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams and hems Hand stitched effect: only the one stitch (lower thr ead) is visible; the other stitch (upper thread = monofilament) is invisible; incr ease upper thread tension to suit the fabric (6–9) Fine to medium we[...]

33 Presser feet 2 Overlock foot Overlock seam, hems, oversewing edges, narrow satin stitch 2 Standar d foot selection 1 5 1 Reverse pattern foot Practical and decorative stitches 4 Zipper foot Sewing in zips 3A 3A Buttonhole foot with slide Buttonhole on smooth fabrics, darning 5 Blind stitch foot Blind hems, edge stitching activa 135 S = 6 feet (1[...]

Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program 34 Securing program • for all fabrics • secures seam begin and end • sews exactly over the previous stitches Seam begin • sewing computer secures automatically (5 stitches forwar ds, 5 reverse) • continues sewing straight stitch forwards Seam end • press the r everse but[...]

35 Selected practical stitches: Basting stitch Basting stitch TIP Basting stitch No. 15 (activa 135 S PE No. 14) size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton/polyester lowered (darning position) No. 9 Basting stitch • for all work which requir es a very long stitch • for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc. • easy to remove [...]

Selected practical stitches: Blind hem 36 Blind stitch No. 7 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Blind stitch foot No. 5 Blind hem for «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and blended fabrics Preparation • neaten raw edges • prepar e seam as for sewing by hand • pla[...]

37 Selected practical stitches: Darning Darning Program No. 14 (activa 135 S PE No. 13) size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) darning thread up (sewing position) Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Buttonhole foot No. 3A Quick darning of holes or wor n areas Replacement of damaged fibres/thr eads Darning with Reverse patter n foot No. 1[...]

Selected practical stitches: Zippers 38 4 Straight stitch No. 1 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Zipper foot No. 4 far right or far left Preparation: • baste in zipper • fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper Sewing • sew in the zipper , each side from bottom t[...]

39 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Everything you need to know about buttonholes Mark the length of manual buttonholes • mark the buttonhole length in the appropriate position • stitch using buttonhole foot No. 3 (optional accessory) Mark the length of automatic buttonholes • mark the length of just one buttonhole • after sewing th[...]

Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 40 T est sewing • always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use • select the buttonhole type you intend to use • sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or against the grain) • cut the buttonhole open • push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length i[...]

41 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Automatic standar d buttonhole with auto length Both beads are sewn in the same dir ection. Note: The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie perfectly flat on the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measu- red accurately . Standard buttonhole No. 10 size and type suitable for fabri[...]

Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 42 5 4 3 2 1 Programme the standar d buttonhole 1 sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer • press the r everse button • «auto» and presser foot No. 3A ar e indicated on the screen = the buttonhole length is programmed 2 the sewing computer sews reverse straight stitch automatically 3 the [...]

43 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Both beads are sewn in the same dir ection. Keyhole buttonhole No. 11 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A Automatic keyhole buttonhole • insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 37) • w[...]

Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 44 Exact duplicates the auto function ensures that each buttonhole will be exactly the same length as the previous one Marking mark only the beginning of the buttonholes – a real time saver! Double sewn keyhole buttonholes • keyhole buttonholes can be sewn twice on thick fabrics • after sewing the firs[...]

45 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: any buttonhole size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Buttonhole foot No. 3 (optional accessory) Preparation • select the desired buttonhole • screen shows: buttonhole number (10 or 11) presser[...]

Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 46 Sewing a manual standard buttonhole Both beads are sewn in the same dir ection. The individual steps blink on the screen. 1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer • press the r everse button 2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch (buttonhole begin) • [...]

47 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes • bring the cords to the fr ont of the foot • pull them into the slit • sew the buttonhole Sewing • sew the buttonhole in the usual manner • do not hold the cord tightly • the buttonhole will form over the cord, covering it Buttonhole with gimp Gimp • gimp cord r einforces button- holes and [...]

Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes 48 Buttonhole cutter and block (special accessory) • place the fabric on the wood • place the cutter in the centre of the buttonhole • press down on the cutter with your hand or a hammer Securing the cord • pull the cord thr ough the buttonhole • pull cords thr ough to back of fabric • knot or se[...]

49 Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory • after programming pr ess the «mem + »-button • the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory Opening saved buttonholes Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for r e-use even after the sewing computer has been disconnected. • select the but[...]

Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program 50 Button sewing-on program No. 13 (activa 135 S PE No. 12) depends on distance between the holes size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester down (darning position) Foot No. 9 Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory) Sewing on buttons • sews buttons wi[...]

51 Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program 4-hole button • sew the front holes • carefully move the button forward • sew the back holes • cut the diagonal joining thread Sewing on buttons with foot No. 18 • set the shank length with the screw on the foot • select Button sewing-on program and continue as with foot No. 9 (p.[...]

Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 52 2 Knits and jersey use a new needle to prevent damaging the loops Sewing stretch fabrics if necessary use a stretch needle (130/705H-S) = needle point slides between the fibers V ari-overlock seam V ari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (se[...]

53 Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 2 Double overlock No. 8 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches. The pin on the foot produces mor e thread in each stitch so that[...]

Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams 54 Needle stop down needle stays in fabric when you stop to adjust the ribbing 2 V ari-overlock No. 3 size and type suitable for the fabric selected (see p. 57) cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Overlock foot No. 2 or Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock[...]

55 Selected practical stitches: Honeycomb stitch Honeycomb No. 19 (activa 135 S PE No. 15) universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed cotton or polyester up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.1 Ribbing with visible seam for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey Preparation press 1 cm (3/8") to wr ong side Sewin[...]

Needles, Threads 56 Needle 70 80 90 1 00 1 1 0 –1 20 Darning thread •• Embroidery thr ead • Mercerised •• cotton thread Synthetic thread •• Thick threads, synthetic mercerised •• thread Buttonhole thread for decorative •• seams (cordonnet) Important facts about sewing computer needles Sewing computer , needle and thread Y ou[...]

57 Needles Special materials are easier to sew if the appr opriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer . Needle table Standard needle Special needles Double needle T riple needle Hemstitch needle Description 130/705 H 130/705-SES 130/705 H-SUK 130/705 H-S 130/705 H-J 130/705 H-LR + H-LL 130/705 H ZWI 130/705 H DRI 1[...]

Needle, thread, fabric feed 58 Feed-dog and fabric feed Let the fabric feed evenly! Holding back will result in knots. Pulling or pushing will result in gaps. Feed-dog and stitch length With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length,[...]

59 Needle, thread, fabric feed Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates 1 1 Thick fabrics: feed-dog and sewing corners The feed-dog can work normally when the foot is level. If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed-dog cannot grip and feed the fabric and the fabric hangs up. Uneven layers T o [...]

Cleaning and maintenance 60 Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer • wipe with a damp cloth Cleaning If the sewing computer is stored in a cold r oom, it should be brought to a warm room about one hour befor e use. Cleaning Clean the sewing computer after every use • turn power switch to «0» • remove pr esser foot and needle • open t[...]

61 Cleaning and maintenance Sewing light Replacing the bulb • turn power switch to «0» • loosen the screw Light bulbs get hot. Allow to cool down before removal. Note: Use bulb type 12 V 5 W . W 2.1 x 9.5 d. • remove the bulb • insert the new bulb • replace cover and tighten screw Refer to the safety instruction! • remove the cover by[...]

Faults 62 T rouble shooting Upper thread br eaks • The upper thread tension is too tight. • The needles are of a poor quality . Ideally needles should be purchased fr om your BERNINA dealer . • The needle is bent or blunt. • Poor quality , knotted or dried out thread has been used. • Use the correct spool disc. • Stitch plate or hook ti[...]

63 A Accessory box 8, 9 B Balance 29, 49, 55 Basting stitch 35 Blanket stitch A3 Blind hem 36 Bobbin 12 Bobbin case 13 Bobbin thread cutter 13 Bringing up the lower thread 18 Button sewing-on program 50 Buttonholes 39– 49 • Altering buttonholes 49 • Automatic keyhole buttonhole 43 • Automatic standard buttonhole 41 • Buttonhole with gimp [...]

Index 64 • Programming letters, numbers and punctuation marks 27 • Programming practical and decorative stitches 26 • Scroll backwar ds/forwards 26 • Stitches 30, 31, 32 N Needle position 22 Needles, Threads, Fabric feed 56– 59 Needle Threader 17 O Overlock seam 54 P Power cable 10 Presser feet 33 Presser foot lifter 11 Q Quilters securin[...]

65 Contents 2 Important safety Instructions 4 Details 10 Setting up the sewing computer 21 Operating instructions 30 Stitches 33 Pr esser feet Selected practical stitches: 34 • Securing program 35 • Basting stitch 36 • Blind hem 37 • Darning program 38 • Zippers 39 • Buttonholes 50 • Button sewing-on program 52 • Overlock 55 • Hon[...]

66 03/03 EN 03 0 529 5 2 04 Impressum T ypesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi Graphics: Müller -Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen © copyright 2003 by Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn 135_145_S_engl 14.3.2003 15:33 Uhr Seite 66 030529.52.04_0303_a135 a145_EN[...]

27 14 13 16 11 26 21 15 30 20 25 17 22 23 18 28 29 24 19 12 # clr del 1 4 7 2 5 8 0 3 6 9 A1 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stitches Stitches Practical 1 Straight stitch 2 Zig-zag 3 V ari-overlock 4 Running stitch 5 Quilters securing program 6 T riple straight and zig-zag 7 Blind stitch 8 Double overlock 9 Blanket stitch 10 Standard buttonhole 11 [...]

activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Straight stitch with securing program A2 Securing program • for all fabrics • secures seam begin and end Seam begin • sewing computer secures automatically (6 short stitches forwar ds) • continues sewing straight stitch forwards Seam end • press the r everse button = sewing computer secures automatically (6[...]

A3 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Blanket stitch Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Blanket stitch Single blanket stitch No. 9 or Double blanket stitch No. 21 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Open Embroidery Foot No. 20 center Preparation • cut desired applique shapes • fuse or baste as desir[...]

Bild PE 140 Nähanleitung S. 24 oben rechts activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Stipple stitch A4 Stipple stitch No. 19 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 center Preparation • prepar e a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be right sides out) • pin or baste laye[...]

A5 activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Handlook quilting Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: T ension: Balance: Handlook quilt stitch Hand-look quilt stitch No. 20 80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex 0.044 monofilament for the upper thread and 40 or 30 weight cotton for the lower thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 [...]

activa 135 S Patchwork Edition: Feather stitch A6 Stitch: Needle: Thread: Feed-dog: Presser foot: Needle position: Feather stitch Feather stitch No. 22 80 machine thread sewing Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Open Embroidery Foot No. 20 center Use this delicate embroidery stitch to embellish fabric or to cover patchwork seams. Preparation • piece p[...]