Brother CS 100T manuale d’uso

ncbc_brother_cov er_Eng P ANT ONE 285 K English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-321 5 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine APPENDIX UTILITY STITCHES SEWING BASICS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE[...]

IMPORTANT SAF ETY INSTRUCTIONS When us ing this mac hine, bas ic safety p recaution s should alw ays be ta ken, includi ng the foll owing: Read all ins tructions be fore using . DANGER - To reduce t he risk of el ectric shock: 1. The machin e should n ever be left unatt ended while plugged in . Always u nplug the machine from the el ectrical outlet[...]

1 FOR USE RS IN THE UK, EIRE , MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this ma chine is fitte d with a three-pin non-rewir eable BS plu g then plea se read the following . IMPORTANT If the ava ilable so cket outlet is not suita ble for t he plug supp lied with t his equipm ent, it sho uld be cut off and a n appropr iate three -pin plug fi tted. Wi th alternat ive[...]

2 CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE Your machi ne is one of the mos t advan ced comput erized hou sehold se wing m achines. To fully enjoy all t he featu res, we sug gest that y ou study t he manual b efore using the ma chine. PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE For safe operation 1. Be sure to k eep your eye on the needle w hile sewing . D[...]

3 CON TENTS 1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE .............. ................... .................. ....... 5 NAMES O F MACHINE PA RTS AND TH EIR FUNCTIO NS ....... ............ ............. .................... 5 The main p arts ...... ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ........... ........ ........ ......... ........ [...]

———————— ——————————— ——————————— —————————— ——————————— —————— — 4 3. UTILIT Y STITCHES ............. ................... ................... .................. ...................32 OVERCA STING STITC HES .................... .......[...]

5 1 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MA CHINE PARTS A ND THEIR FUNCT IONS The main parts a Bobbin winder (page 11) This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as t he lower thr ead. b Spool pin (pages 11 and 16) This holds the spool of threa d. c Hole for extra spool pin (pa ge 23) This holds a second spool of thread for se wing with two ne[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 6 Needle a n d presser foot section a Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader) (p age [...]

7 1 Operation panel The ope ration panel, located on the front of the sewing mac hine, allow s you to select a stitch and specify h ow the stitch will be sewn. a LCD (Liquid crystal display) The selected stitch ( 1 ), presser foot that should be used ( 2 ), stit ch le ngth in mill imet ers ( 3 ) , and stitch w i dth in millimeters ( 4 ) are display[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 8 ACCESSORIE S The follo wing accesso ries are stored in th e flat bed att achment. We have designed these accessories to help you be able to carry out mo s t sewing tasks. Note (For U.S.A. o n[...]

9 1 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the follo wing precautions c oncerning th e power supply. Power supp ly a Insert the pl ug into a wall o utlet. a Main power switch b Jack/socket connec tor b Set the ma in power switch to “I”. X The sewing lamp co mes on w hen the machine is turned on . c To turn of f th[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 10 Foot controller Insert the foot controller plu g into its jack/soc ket on the rear s ide of t he sewing m a chine. a Foot controller j ack/socket When you p ress the foot controll er down li[...]

11 1 THREADING THE MACHINE Winding t he bobbin This sectio n describes how to wind the thr e ad onto the bobbin. • For d etails on the fast b obbin winding, see page 13 . a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin wi nder shaft c Bob bin a Pull up the spool pin as far a s possible, and then put a s pool of thre ad on this pin. b Pass the thread a round the pre-[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 12 f Whil e hol ding t he end of the thread , gen tly press the foot controlle r or pre ss (start/ stop but ton) (for models e quipped wi th the start/stop button ) to wind the thread around th[...]

13 1 ■ For mo dels equ ipped wi th the fast bob bin wind ing syste m a Follow steps 1 through 2 of the proc edure in “Windi ng the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension dis k (page 11). b Place th e bobbin on t he bobbin wi nder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into th e notch in t he bobbin . a Notch b Bobbin winder sha[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 14 Memo ● When the sewing ma chine is started or the handw heel is turned af ter winding the thread a round the bobbin , the machi ne will make a clicking soun d; this is not a malfun ction. [...]

15 1 the right side (see arrow b ) until the co v er clicks into place. • Repla ce the cover so that the en d of the thread c o mes out f rom the left side of th e cover (as sho w n by th e line in the dia g ram). ■ For models equi pped with the quick-set bo bbin a Raise th e needle to its high est posit ion by turn ing the han dwheel toward yo[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 16 Upper threading Set th e upper thre ad and thr ead the ne edle. • For d etails on the needle th reader, see page 1 7. a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel a Raise the presser[...]

17 1 c Pull up the spool pin as far a s possible, and then put a s pool of thre ad on this pin. d Feed t he upper th read as sh own in the f igure on the pre vious page. e Make sure you guide the thread throug h the thread take-up l ever from right to left. a Thread take -up lever f Put the thread behind the needle bar thre ad guide a bove the ne e[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 18 d Fully low er the needle threader lever. X The end o f the needle threader ro tates toward yo u and the hook passe s through the eye of t he ne edle. e Catch the thr ead on the hook as sh o[...]

19 1 Drawing up the lower thread a Ligh tly hold the end of the upper thread. a Upp er thre ad b While h olding the end of the upper th read, rais e the ne edle ei ther by t urnin g the handwh eel toward y ou (countercl ockwise) so that the m ark on the whe e l point s up or by pressing (needl e position b utton) (for models e quipped with the need[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 20 REPLACING THE NEEDLE This sectio n provides informa tion on sewing m achine needl es. Needle pre cautions Be sure to observe the follo wing precautions c oncerning th e handling of th e need[...]

21 1 Checking the needle Sewing with a bent ne edle is extremely dangerous since the needle ma y break while the machine i s bein g operat ed. Before usin g the needle, place the flat side of the needl e on a f lat sur face a nd chec k that the di stance betwee n the needl e and the flat s urface is ev en. a Flat side b Need le t ype mar king ■ C[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 22 d Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdri ver to tu rn the n eedle clam p screw cou ntercl ockwise to remo ve the needle. Note ● The ne edle can b e removed by simply [...]

23 1 Sewing with a twin needle We have designed yo ur machine so you can se w with this needle and tw o top thread s. You can us e the same color or two differe nt colors of thread for maki ng decorative stitches. For deta ils on the stitches th at can be sewn with the twin nee d le, refe r to “Stitch setti ngs” (page 52). ■ Twin needle threa[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 24 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT Replacing the pr esser foot Replace th e presser foo t as described below. a Raise the needle by tur ning the handwheel toward you (counterclock w ise) so that the[...]

25 1 f Slowly lower the presser foot lever so tha t the press er foot pin snaps into the sh ank in the presser foot holder. a Presser foot lever X The presse r foot is attached. g Raise t he presser foot lever t o check th at the press er foot is secu rely at tach ed. Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foo t holder whe n cleaning t[...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 26 2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic se wing operation s are describe d below. Before op erating the se wing machine, read the followi ng precautions. General sewing procedure Follo[...]

27 2 Selecting s titching Using the stitch selection k eys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine i s turn ed on, the straigh t stitch ( left ne edle position) is selected. a Turn on the sewing mach ine. b Press (stitch selection keys). The number o f the selected stitch i s displayed. Press the “+” o r “–” side of to incre a[...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 28 Starting to sew a Raise the needle by turning t he handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mar k on the wheel points up. ( With models equipped with (needle posi[...]

29 2 k Pull the f abric to the left side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. a Thread cutte r Memo ● When the foot control ler is plugged in, (start/ s top button) cann ot be used to sta rt or stop sewing. ● When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowere d (in the fabric ). The mach ine can be set[...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 30 USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to a chieve bet ter resul ts for your s ewing projec ts are describe d below. Ref er to these tip s wh en sewi ng your proj ect. Trial sewing[...]

31 2 ■ If thic k seams are bei ng sewn an d the fab ric do es not fe ed at the begi nning o f stit ching Zigzag foot “J” is equ ipped with a feature that keeps the pr esser foot le vel . a Sewing d irection a When you enc ount er a seam that is t oo th ick to feed under the foot , raise the p r esser foot lever. b Press the blac k butt on on [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 32 3 UTILITY STITCHES OVERCASTING STITCHES You can use the overcast ing stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. T hey are also useful for sewing st ret[...]

33 3 BASI C ST ITCH ING Straight stitches are used fo r sewing plain se ams. Three stitches a re available for ba sic stitching. *Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: R einforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching . Basi c stitching a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. b Attac h zigza g foot “J”. c Select a stit ch. • For d etails, refer to “Selec t[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 34 BLIND HEM STITCH ING You can use th e Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edg e of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, wit hout the stitch sh o win g. *Rfc.: Re inforce[...]

35 3 BUTTONHOLE SEWI NG Button holes can be sew n and buttons can be sewn on . *Auto Rfc .: Automatic Rein forcement **Rfc.: Rei nforcement The ma ximum buttonhol e length is abou t 28 mm (1-1/8 inc h) (diameter + thi ckness of the b utton). Button holes are sewn fro m the front of the presser foot to the back, a s show n below. Stitch Nam e Patter[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 36 The name s of pa rts of but tonh ole foo t “A” , whic h is used for s e wing b uttonholes, are in dicated below . a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks [...]

37 3 • When lowering the pres ser foot, do no t push in the front of the presser foot, ot herwise the buttonho le will not be sewn with the c orrect size. a Do not reduce the gap. f Pull down t he bu ttonh ole leve r as far as possible . a Buttonhole lever The butto nhole lever is po sitioned behin d the bracket on the buttonho le foot. a Buttonh[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 38 ■ Sewin g buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing bu ttonholes o n stretch fab rics, use a gimp t hread. a Hook the gim p thread on to the part of buttonhole foot “A?[...]

39 3 d Place a butto n betw een th e presse r foot and the fabric. • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so t hat the nee dle goes into the two holes tow ard the rear of the sewing mach ine, and the n sew them in the same way. e Select a stitch . (Wit h models no t provided with stitch [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 40 ZIPP ER IN SERT ION You can use the zipper fo ot to sew different types of z ippers, and can easily po sition it to the right or left sid e of the needle . When sew ing the r[...]

41 3 SEWING STRETCH FABR ICS AND ELASTIC TAPE Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elast ic tape can be a ttached. *Rfc.: Re inforcement Observe the corresponding precautions wh en performing e a ch of th e following st itching operatio ns. Stretch stitching a Attac h zigza g foot “J”. b Select stitch . c Sew the fabric witho ut stretching it. Elast[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 42 APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK A ND QUILT STITCHING The sti tches that can be used for sewing appli qués, patchw ork and quilt s are de scribed below . *Rfc.: Re inforcement **Do no t[...]

43 3 d Caref ully sew aro und the ed ge of t he design . e Cut away any fabr ic that is lef t outside the stitch ing. f Remov e the basti ng, if necessa ry. Memo ● Make rein forcing straight sti tches at the beginn ing and the en d of stitching. Patchwork (cra zy quilt) stitching a Fold the e dge of t he to p piece of fa bric and place it over th[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 44 Quilting Sandwi ching batting b etween the to p and bottom layers of fabric is called “qu ilting”. Qu ilts can easily be sewn using the optiona l walking foot and the opt[...]

45 3 Free-motion quilting With free-moti on quilting, th e feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any di rection. The optio nal quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. a Remove the presse r foot and the presse r foot holder . • For d e tails, refe r to “Removing th e pres[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 46 REINFORCEMENT STITCHING Reinforce points that will b e subject to strain, such as sle eve holes, inseams and pocket corners. *Rfc.: Reinf orcement ** Auto Rfc.: Automa tic Re[...]

47 3 c Select stitch . d Position the fabric so th at the opening of the pocket faces tow ard you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket open ing. a 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread do wn through the hole in the pre sser foot. • When lowering the pres ser foot, do no t push in[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 48 DECORATIVE STITCHING Various dec orative stitches c an be sewn with t h is sewing machine. *Rfc.: Re inforcement Stitch Nam e Patte rn Presser Foot Pattern No. App lication S[...]

49 3 Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is called “fag oting”. It is used on bl ouses and child ren's clothing. Th is stitch is more deco rative when th icker thread is u s ed. a Use an i ron to fold the t wo pieces of fa bric along their seam s. b Baste th e two pieces of fabric, sepa r ated b y about 4.0 mm (3/16 inc h), onto thin pa[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 50 Smocking The dec orative stitch cr eated by stitc hing or embroide ring over gat hers is called “ smocking”. It is used to de corate the front of blouses or cu ffs. The s[...]

51 3 e Unfold t he fabric, and th en iron the tucks down to o ne side. Joining Decorativ e bridging stitche s can be sewn o ver the seam all owance of joined fabrics. This is use d when making a crazy quilt. a Attac h zigza g foot “J”. b Sew t ogether t he righ t sides of t he two piec es of fabric , and then op en up the seam allowan ces. a Wr[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 52 4 APPENDIX STITCH SETTINGS Applicatio ns, stitch lengths a nd widths and whet her the tw in ne edle can be used are listed for utility stitc hes in the follow ing table. Uti[...]

53 4 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stitchi ng 70 stitc hes mod el 60 stitc hes mod el 50 stitc hes mod el 40 stitc hes mod el Auto Manual Aut o Manual Blind hem stitc h R 0 90 90 90 9 Blind hem stitching on medium[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 54 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stit c[...]

55 4 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stitchi ng 70 stitc hes mod el 60 stitc hes mod el 50 stitc hes mod el 40 stitc hes mod el Auto Manual Aut o Manual Appliqu é stitc h (for qui lting) J4 1 4 1 - - Attaching appl[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 56 *Rfc.: Reinf orcement **Select a stitc h width of 5. 0 mm (3/16 inch ) or less. Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stit[...]

57 4 MAINTENA NCE Simp le sewing mac hine mainte nance oper ations are des cribed below . Cleani ng the machine surface If the surfa ce of the machin e is dirty, light ly soak a cloth in neutral deter gent, squeez e it out firmly , and then wipe t he sur face o f the mach ine. Afte r cle aning it once wit h a wet cloth, w ipe it again with a dry cl[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 58 e Remove the bobbin cas e. Grasp the bobbin cas e, and then pu ll it out. a Bobbin case f Use th e cleaning brush or a vacuum cle aner to remove any dust from the race and i[...]

59 4 TROUBL ESHOOTIN G If the ma chine stops work ing properly, check the foll owing possible problems. If the prob lem it still the re, contact yo ur retail er or th e nearest au thorised service center. Symp tom Possible cause How to put it right Referen ce The sewin g machine does not work. The ma chine is not plug ged in. Plug th e machine in. [...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 60 The uppe r thread breaks. You hav e not inserted th e needle properly . Insert the ne edle properly. p age 21 The are a around the h ole in the nee- dle plate is scratche d.[...]

61 4 Stit ches ar e skip ped. You hav e not threaded the upper thre ad pr ope rly . Corr e ct t he upper thr eading. page 16 You h a ve not used the ri ght combi- nation of fabric, thread and needle. Cho ose a t hread and need le th at are appropri ate for the type of fabric. page 20 The ne edle is bent o r blunt. Repl a ce the needle. page 21 You [...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 62 ERROR MESSAGES If an ope ration is performe d incorrectly before the sewing ma chine is set up, an e rror message appea rs on the operation panel. Follow the instructions in[...]

63 4 i INDEX Numeri cs 3-point z igzag stitch ..... ........ ........ ........... ........ ......... ...... 32 A accessor ies ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... .......... .. 8 appliqué s ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ........... .. 42 B bar tack ... ........ ........ ......... ....[...]

———————— ——————————— ——————————— —————————— ——————————— —————— — 64 T thick fa brics....... ......... .......... ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ 30 thin f abrics ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ .[...]

ncbc_brother_cov er_Eng P ANT ONE 285 K English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-321 5 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine APPENDIX UTILITY STITCHES SEWING BASICS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE[...]