Brother UM BC 1000 manuale d’uso

ncbc_brother_cov er_Eng P ANT ONE 285 K English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-421 6 Printed in China Operation Manual Computerized Sewing Machine APPENDIX UTILITY STITCHES SEWING BASICS KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE[...]

1 FOR USE RS IN THE UK, EIRE , MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY If this ma chine is fitte d with a thre e-pin non- rewireable BS plu g then pl ease read the following. IMPORTANT If the ava ilable sock et outlet is n ot suitable fo r the plug s upplied with t his equipm ent, it sho uld be cut off and a n appropria te three-pin plug fitted . With altern ative p[...]

2 CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINE Your machi ne is one of the most a dvanced com puterized househol d sewing m achines. To full y enjoy all t he features, we suggest that you stud y the manua l before u sing the mach ine. PLEASE READ BEFORE USING THIS MACHINE For safe operation 1. Be sure to k eep your eye on the nee dle while sew ing. Do n[...]

3 CON TENTS 1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ......... ................... ....................... ....... 5 NAMES O F MACHINE PART S AND THEIR FU NCTIONS ................... ............. .................... 5 The main p arts ...... ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ....[...]

———————— ——————————— ——————————— —————————— ——————————— —————— — 4 3. UTILIT Y STITC HES ............. ................... ....................... ................... .............. 32 OVERCA STING STITC HES ..........................[...]

5 1 1 KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE NAMES OF MA CHINE PARTS AND T HEIR FUNCTIONS The main parts a Bobbin winder (page 11) This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as t he lower thr ead. b Spool pin (pages 11 a nd 16) This holds the spool of threa d. c Hole for extra spool pin (pa ge 23) This holds a second spool of thread for se wing with two ne[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 6 Needle a n d pres ser foot section a Buttonhole lever Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes and bar tacks. b Needle threader (for models equipped with the needle threader) (p age[...]

7 1 Operation panel The ope ration panel, located on the front of the sewing mac hine, allow s you to select a stitch and specify h ow the stitch will be sewn. a LCD (Liquid crystal display) The selected stitch ( 1 ), presser foot that should be used ( 2 ), stit ch len gth in mi llim eters ( 3 ), and stitch w i dth in millimeters ( 4 ) are displaye[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 8 ACCESSORIES The follo wing accessorie s are stored in th e flat bed att a chm e nt. We have designed these accesso ries to help you be able to carry out mo s t sew ing tasks. Note (For U.S.A.[...]

9 1 USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Power supply precautions Be sure to observe the follo wing precautions c oncerning th e power supply. Power supp ly a Insert the pl ug into a wall outle t. a Main power switch b Jack/socket connec tor b Set the ma in power switch to “I”. X The sewing lamp come s on when th e machine is turned on . c To turn of f th[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 10 Foot controller Insert the foot controller plu g into its jack/soc ket on the rear s ide of the sewing m achine. a Foot controller j ack/socket When you p ress the foot control ler down ligh[...]

11 1 THREADING THE MACHINE Winding t he bobbin This sectio n describes how to wind the thr e ad o nto the bobbin. • For deta ils on the fast bobb in winding, se e page 13. a Pre-tension disk b Bobbin wi nder shaft c Bob bin a Pull up the spool pin as far a s possible, and then put a sp ool of thread on thi s pin. b Pass the thread a round the pre[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 12 f Whil e hol ding th e end of the thre ad, gen tly press the foot controlle r or pre ss (start/ stop but ton) (for models equipped wi th the start/stop button ) to wind the thread around the[...]

13 1 ■ For mo dels equippe d with the fast bobbin wind ing syste m a Follow steps 1 through 2 of the proc edure in “Windi ng the bobbin” to pass the thread around the pre-tension disk (page 11). b Place th e bobbin on t he bobbin wi nder shaft so that the spring on the shaft fits into th e notch in t he bobbin . a Notch b Bobbin winder shaft [...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 14 Memo ● When the sewing ma chine is started or the handw heel is turned af ter winding the thread a round the bobbin , the machi ne will make a clicking soun d; this is not a malfun ction. [...]

15 1 the right side (see arrow b ) until the c over clicks into place. • Replace the cover so th at the end o f the thread c o mes out f rom the left side of the cover (as sho w n by the line in the diagram). ■ For models equi pped with the quick-set bo bbin a Raise th e needle to its highest position b y turning the han dwheel toward y ou (cou[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 16 Upper threading Set th e upper thre ad and thr ead the ne edle. • For details o n the needle threa der, see page 17. a Spool pin b Thread guide c Mark on the handwheel a Raise the presser [...]

17 1 c Pull up the spool pin as far a s possible, and then put a sp ool of thread on thi s pin. d Feed t he upper t hread as sh own in the f igure on the pre vious page. e Make sure you guide the thread through the thread take-up l ever from right to left. a Thread take -up lever f Put the thread behind the needle bar thre ad guide a bove the ne ed[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 18 d Fully low er the needle threader lever. X The end o f the needle th reader rotate s toward yo u and the hook passes through the eye of t he need le. e Catch the thr ead on the hook as show[...]

19 1 Drawing up the lower thread a Ligh tly hold the end of the upper thread. a Upp er thre ad b While h olding the end of the upper th read, rais e the need le eith er by turn ing th e handwh eel toward y ou (counter clockwise) s o that the m ark on the whe e l poin ts up or by pressing (needle p osition button) (for models e quipped with the need[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 20 REPLACING THE NEEDLE This sectio n provides informa tion on sewing m achine needl es. Needle pre cautions Be sure to observe the follo wing precautions c oncerning th e handling of the needl[...]

21 1 Checking the needle Sewing with a bent ne edle is extremely dangerous since the needle ma y break while the machine i s bein g operat ed. Before usin g the needle, place the fl at side of the needl e on a fla t surfac e and ch eck tha t the d istance betwee n the needl e and the flat s urface is ev en. a Flat side b Need le ty pe m ark ing ■[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 22 d Hold the needle with your left hand, and then use a screwdri ver to tu rn the n eedle clam p screw cou ntercloc kwise to re move the needle. Note ● The ne edle can b e removed by simply [...]

23 1 Sewing with a twin needle We have designed yo ur machine so you can se w with this needle an d two top thread s. You can use the same color or two differe nt colors of thread for making de corative stitches. For deta ils on the stitches th at can be sewn with the twin nee dle, refer to “Stit ch settings” (pag e 52). ■ Twin needle threadi[...]

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MAC HINE ——————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 24 REPLACING THE PRESSER FOOT Replacing the pr esser foot Replace th e presser foo t as described below. a Raise the needle by tur ning the handwheel toward you (counterclock w ise) so that the[...]

25 1 f Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the press er foot pin snaps into t he shank in the presser foot holder. a Presser foot lever X The presse r foot is at tached. g Raise t he presser foot lever to check th at the press er foot is secure ly atta ched. Removing the presser foot holder Remove the presser foo t holder whe n cleaning the[...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 26 2 SEWING BASICS SEWING Basic se wing operation s are describe d below. Before op erating the se wing machine, read the followi ng precautions. General sewing procedure Follo[...]

27 2 Selecting s titching Using the stitch selection k eys, select the desired stitch. When the sewing machine i s turned on, the straight stitch ( left ne edle position) is selected. a Turn on the sewing mach ine. b Press (stitch selection keys). The number o f the selected stitch i s displayed. Press the “+” o r “–” side of to increase [...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 28 Starting to sew a Raise the needle by turning t he handwheel toward you (counterclockwise) so that the mar k on the wheel points up. ( With models equipped with (needle posi[...]

29 2 k Pull the f abric to the le ft side of the machine, and then pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. a Thread cutte r Memo ● When the foot control ler is plugged in, (start/ s top button) cann ot be used to s tart or stop sewing. ● When sewing is stopped, the needle remains lowere d (in the fabr ic). T he machine c an be s[...]

SEWI NG BASICS —————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 30 USEFUL SEWING TIPS Various ways to a chieve bet ter resul ts for your s ewing projec ts are descri bed below. Ref er to these tip s when sewi ng your p roje ct. Trial sewing[...]

31 2 ■ If thic k seams are bein g sewn and the fabric does not fe ed at the begin ning of sti tchin g Zigzag foot “J” is equ ipped with a feature that keeps the press er foo t leve l. a Sewing d irection a When you enc ounter a se am that i s too th ick to feed under the foot , raise the p resser foot lever. b Press the blac k butto n on the [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 32 3 UTILITY STITCHES OVERCASTING STITCHES You can use the overcast ing stitches to join together seams and finish them in one operation. T hey are also useful for sewing st ret[...]

33 3 BASI C ST ITCHING Straight stitches are used fo r sewing plain se ams. Three stitche s are available fo r basic stitching. *Rev.: Reverse **Rfc.: R einforcement ***Do not use reverse stitching . Basi c stitching a Baste or pin together the fabric pieces. b Attac h zigza g foot “J” . c Select a stit ch. • For details, re fer to “Selecti[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 34 BLIND HEM ST ITCHING You can use th e Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edg e of a project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, w ithout the stitch showin g. *Rfc.: Re inforceme[...]

35 3 BUTTONHOLE SEWI NG Button holes can be sew n and buttons can be sewn on . *Auto Rfc .: Automatic Rein forcement **Rfc.: Rei nforcement The ma ximum buttonhol e length is abou t 28 mm (1-1/8 inc h) (diameter + thickness of the b utton). Button holes are sewn fro m the front of the presser foot to the back, a s shown bel ow. Stitch Nam e Pattern[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 36 The names of par ts of b utto nhole foot “ A”, which i s used for s ewing buttonhole s , are indicated be low. a Button guide plate b Presser foot scale c Pin d Marks on [...]

37 3 • When low ering the presser foot, do not pu sh in the front of the presser foot, ot herwise the buttonho le will not be sewn with the c orrect size. a Do not reduce the gap. f Pull down the butt onhol e leve r as fa r as possible . a Buttonhole lever The butto nhole lever is positioned behin d the bracket on the buttonho le foot. a Buttonho[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 38 ■ Sewin g buttonholes on stretch fabrics When sewing bu ttonholes o n stretch fab rics, use a gimp t hread. a Hook the gim p thread on to the part of buttonhole foot “A?[...]

39 3 d Place a button b etween the pr esser foot and the fabric. • When att aching four-hole bu ttons, first sew the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the button so t hat the nee dle goes into the two holes tow ard the rear of the sewing mach ine, and the n sew them in the same way. e Select a stitch . (Wit h mo dels not provid ed with stitch[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 40 ZIPP ER IN SERTIO N You can use the zipp er foot to sew different typ es of zippers, and can easily po sition it to the right or left side of the needle . When sew ing the ri[...]

41 3 SEWING STRETCH FABR ICS AND ELASTIC TAPE Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elast ic tape can be attached. *Rfc.: Re inforcement Observe the corresponding precautions wh en performing e ach of the follo wing stitching op erations. Stretch stitching a Attac h zigza g foot “J” . b Select stitch . c Sew the fabric witho ut stretching it. Elastic[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 42 APPLIQUÉ, PATCHWORK A ND QUILT STITCHING The sti tches that can be used for sewing ap pliqués, patc hwork and quilt s are descri bed below. *Rfc.: Reinf orcement **Do no t [...]

43 3 d Caref ully sew arou nd the edge of the de sign. e Cut away any fabr ic that is left outside the sti tching. f Remov e the bastin g, if nece ssary. Memo ● Make rein forcing straight sti tches at the beginn ing and the en d of stitching. Patchwork (cra zy quilt) stitching a Fold the edg e of th e top p iece of fabr ic and place it over the l[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 44 Quilting Sandwi ching batting b etween the to p and bottom layers of fabric is called “qu ilting”. Qu ilts can easily be sewn using the optiona l walking foot and the opt[...]

45 3 Free-motion quilting With free-moti on quilting, th e feed dogs can be lowered (using the feed dog position lever) so that the fabric can be moved freely in any di rection. The optio nal quilting foot is needed for free-motion quilting. a Remove the presse r foot and the presser foo t holder . • For details, re fer to “Removing the presser[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 46 REINFORCEMENT STITCHING Reinforce points that will b e subject to strain , such as sleeve holes, in s eams a nd pocket corners. *Rfc.: Reinf orcement ** Auto Rfc.: Automa tic[...]

47 3 c Select stitch . d Position the fabric so th at the opening of the pocket faces tow ard you, and then lower the presser foot lever so that the needle drops 2 mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket open ing. a 2 mm (1/16 inch) Pass the upper thread do wn through the hole in the pre sser foot. • When low ering the presser foot, do not pu sh in[...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 48 DECORATIVE STITCHING Various dec orative stitches c an be sewn with t his sewing machine . *Rfc.: Re inforcement Stitch Nam e Patte rn Presser Foot Pattern No. App lication S[...]

49 3 Fagoting Stitching across an open seam is cal led “fagoting”. It is used on bl ouses and child ren's clothing. Th is stitch is more deco rative when th icker thread is u sed. a Use an i ron to fold the t wo pieces of fa bric along their seam s. b Baste th e two pieces of fabric, sepa rated by about 4.0 mm (3/16 inc h), onto thin pape [...]

UTILITY STITCHES ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ———————— — 50 Smocking The dec orative stitch cr eated by stitc hing or embroide ring over gat hers is called “smocking”. It is used to de corate the front of blouses or cu ffs. The sm[...]

51 3 e Unfold t he fabric, and th en iron the tucks down to o ne side. Joining Decorativ e bridging stit ches can be sewn o ver the seam all owance of joined fabrics. This is use d when making a crazy quilt. a Attac h zigza g foot “J” . b Sew t ogether t he righ t sides of the two pi eces of fabric , and then op en up the seam allowan ces. a Wr[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 52 4 APPENDIX STITCH SETTINGS Applicatio ns, stitch lengths a nd widths and whet her the tw in ne edle can be used ar e listed for utility stitc hes in the follow ing table. Ut[...]

53 4 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stitchi ng 70 stitc hes mod el 60 stitc hes mod el 50 stitc hes mod el 40 stitc hes mod el Auto Manual Aut o Manual Blind hem stitc h R 0 90 90 90 9 Blind hem stitching on medium[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 54 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stitch[...]

55 4 Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitch Length [mm (inch. )] Twin Needle Walking F oot Reverse/ Reinfo rcement Stitchi ng 70 stitc hes mod el 60 stitc hes mod el 50 stitc hes mod el 40 stitc hes mod el Auto Manual Aut o Manual Appliqu é stitc h (for qui lting) J4 1 4 1 - - Attaching appl[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 56 *Rfc.: Reinf orcement **Selec t a stitch width of 5.0 mm (3/16 in ch) or less. Stitch Nam e Pat tern Presser Fo ot Pattern No. App lication Stitch W idth [mm (inch. )] Stitc[...]

57 4 MAINTENA NCE Simp le sewing mac hine mainte nance oper ations are des cribed bel ow. Cleani ng the machine surface If the surfa ce of the machin e is dirty, light ly soak a cloth in neutral deter gent, squeez e it out firmly , and then wipe th e surf ace of t he mach ine. After clean ing it once wit h a wet cloth, w ipe it again with a dry clo[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 58 e Remove the bobbin c a se. Grasp the bobbin cas e, and then pull it out. a Bobbin case f Use th e cleaning brush or a vacuum cle aner to remove any dust f rom the race and [...]

59 4 TROUBL ESHOOTIN G If the ma chine stops work ing properly, check the foll owing possib le problems. If the prob lem it still the re, contact yo ur retail er or the nearest au thorised service center. Symp tom Possible cause How to put it right Referen ce The sewin g machine does not work. The ma chine is not plug ged in. Plug th e machine in. [...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 60 The uppe r thread breaks. You hav e not inserted th e needle properly . Insert the ne edle properly. p age 21 The are a around the h ole in the nee- dle plate is scratche d.[...]

61 4 Stit ches are skip ped. You hav e not thread ed the upper thre ad p ro perly . Corr e ct t he upper t hreading. pag e 16 You h a ve not used the ri ght combi- nation of fabric, thread and needle. Cho ose a thre ad and n eedle t hat are appropri ate for the type of fabric. page 20 The ne edle is bent o r blunt. Repl ace the need le. page 21 You[...]

APPENDIX ———————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— ——————————— — 62 ERROR MESSAGES If an ope ration is performe d incorrectly be fore the sewing ma chine is set up, an e rror message app e ars on the operation panel. Follow the instructions [...]

63 4 i INDEX Numeri cs 3-point z igzag stitch ....... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ...... 32 A accessor ies ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ .... 8 appliqué s ........ ........ ......... ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... .... 42 B bar tack ... ........ ........ ......... ....[...]

———————— ——————————— ——————————— —————————— ——————————— —————— — 64 T thick fa brics....... ......... ........ ........ ......... .......... ......... ........ 30 thin f abrics ........ ......... ........ ........ ......... ........ .[...]

English 885-S33/S34/S36/S37 XC8835-521 Printed in China[...]