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Table of contents for the manual
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Page 1
OWNER'S MANUAL SEWING MACHINE MODELS 385. 1155180 or 385. 1154180 or 385. 1011180[...]
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Page 2
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear CustomeP: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oil[...]
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Page 3
TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 1. SECTION 2. SECTION 3. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2 Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3 Identify the Accessories ........................ 3 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6 Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ...[...]
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Page 4
_jA<Pbrtab le; Gase: o_r_._6ab!ne t ! fs :A va dab le_ ._:, A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. f 2 _1 r_ Lobate:and r !dentlfy _the_P_ ,ts: Bobbin W;nder Tension D_s[...]
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Page 5
SpooE Pins Clutch Knob Hand Wheel Lcght and Power Switch Plug Connector Foot Control Top Cover Presser Foot Thread Guide Presser Foot Lever Free Arm Nomenclature Plate Thread Guide Thread Guide Need le Clarqp Accessory box Bobbin S Needle set Darning plate_ Straight stitch foo: footSatin stitch nt brush _nhofe opener _rge screw driver _1 screw driv[...]
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Page 6
._, _.-_ -_ _ X__'_- _,_< _._._';'_ _ :,_;;._ o,_-_.-.',_ ,. . Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power f Power switch Power supply plug supply NOTE: Machine socket Machine plug Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF. 1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC out[...]
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Page 7
Setting Spool Pins Spool pin felt II L 0°°'0'n Adjust the Presser Foot Lever H=gh position Norrnal position • , Presser foot _-_-_,';;' lever Normal up High position pos[tiof_'_ k, • Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table To remove: To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing) 1, Grip the table with[...]
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Page 8
• Free-Arm Sewing (Continued) Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for: * bar tacking to reinforce pockets, belt loops and waistline on ready- made or homemade garments to avoicl fabric bunching around the needle. * stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees, legs, or any circular ga[...]
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Page 9
z_'- _ _-_-_ %_'C_._ _-_ _,-"_- _ _ '_= _ ._"J-_'_ "_' ,;_z;_: _ ,_-_-_ ?T_." ,_ _ ._. ' _ _ ____4:= _:__ ;_z.Z; -_._2___ _o_.¢__, _ ._ ___ _ ":__ :_'.-% -_ _- ' L_ The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them ef[...]
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Page 10
• Presser Foot Types (Continued) Satin Stitch Foot f Satin stitch foot Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining applique and Buttonhole making. Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26), Applique (see p. 27), Monogramming (see p. 28) Zipper Foot 4- Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zippe[...]
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Page 11
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics Orange (1 1 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and d[...]
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Page 12
FABRIC Lightweight: Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits, Vinyl Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets, Leather Heavy W[...]
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Page 13
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine r = f Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by puIIing down the embossed part on the left side of the cover, Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you. J To remove bobbin case from shut- tie, pull open latch of bobbin [...]
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Page 14
• Wind the Bobbin (Continued) f Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown. hole in Place bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winder shaft to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start ma- chine. Wh[...]
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Page 15
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released. wise and is coming from as shown abo[...]
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Page 16
• Thread Your Needle (!) The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight. Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of t[...]
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Page 17
® J 5. Draw thread down and into thread guide. 6. Pull the thread to the left and slip it through the thread guide. 7. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide. 8. Thread needle from front to back. NOTE: You may want to cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle th reading. 1. Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread Raise presse[...]
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Page 18
_- _t_ _ _ _:_f _. "_ _-;_' _--_ _ -_:._ - :, Top side of fabric Setting mark Loose__ T_ghten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no gaps, that each stit[...]
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Page 19
For Zigzag Stitch In the ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads wilt not show on top of the fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below for the correct appearance. Adjust the top thread tension for the best match in your sewing conditions. Too Tight C. (?= _,."L Y-" _ %_;-,°-,'.-, ?J-7 .L_.-:?&.-_[...]
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Page 20
t _ Setting mark_ I The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches. The different types of stitches are designated by color. Straight, Zigzag and Three-Step Zigzag (Model 11551 only) are orange. Straight Stretch [Models 11551 and 11541), Ri[...]
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Page 21
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew: 1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the cor[...]
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Page 22
Stitch Selector STRAIGHT Straight .... i | . ZIGZAG SATIN STITCH Other Thread Stitch Stitch Foot , : _ ' Attach. ' , Needle : , Tension" Length " _ , . Uses Refer to Page Darning Check 2 _ 6 6 _ 12 Regular seams, zippers, topstitching, darning, 2 2_ 24 Zigzag plate Chart v-. , invisible zipper, cording, etc, 34 _ 35 ' "[...]
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Page 23
St itch Stitch Other Thread Stitch Selector Foot Attach. Needle Tension Length Uses Refer to Page Check 2 _ 6 S • L Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 24 Chart for topstitching. STRAIGHT STR ETCH (Models 11551 and 11541) RICK-RACK STRETCH (Models 11551 and 11541) THREE-STEP ZIGZAG (Model 11551 only) SMOCKING STITCH (Model 11551 only) ,,[...]
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Page 24
,_ ;_._St r atg ht_S.ti_._ti.es!L" _ -,., g_: ;,_ ?;:;[,,-t,,z ¢. ,,-.%,%;_-&<,jz; -_ -_.],.,.',$2 • Straight Stitch f Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 2 to 6 L Stitch length control 6 to 1 2 Zigzag foot 22 1. Raise the presser foot. - 7. At the end of the seam; you may 2. Raise the needle to its highes[...]
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Page 25
• Use the Darning Plate f _ometimes when you sew, you want o control the fabric youself. The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. To .Put on the Darning Plate: NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the -holes in the needle plate. In the darning plate, these holes are slightly to the left of cen[...]
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Page 26
24 Set the Machine Stich selector ! Top thread tension control 1 to 4 No presser foot Stitch length Any number (not necessary to adlust) t Darning plate !L : ' . .... =. , =i ,1.- Here's How 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see p. 233). 2. Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. 3. Dra[...]
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Page 27
• Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch selector @ Stitch length Top thread tension 6 to 24 control 2 to 5 Z;gzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. Itcan be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem- ming, overcasting, mending and darn- ing. It can also [...]
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Page 28
• Satin Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector I Top thread tens;or, control 1 to 4 Satin stitch foot The Stitch and Its Uses Stitch length 0 to 24 <, The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths and napkins). The Satin stitch is e[...]
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Page 29
Stitch selector Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch length 0 to 24 Satir, stitch foot Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle fails along the outer edge of the applique, When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivo[...]
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Page 30
+ Monogramming Set the Machine Stitch selector Stitch ength 0 to 24 Top thread tens_en control 1 to 4 Satin stitch foot !. 28 k, Here's How 1. Set the same as satin stitch. 2. Back the fabric with paper or interfacing. 3. Draw the design on to the fabric with tailor's chalk. 4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch width as necessary to form[...]
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Page 31
Sew a Button Set the Machine Stitch selector ! Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Zigzag foot Stitch tength Any number (not necessary tO adjust} O' '_-.%':' ._-:,b .-_ "t:i_-_L:,: '" :_-'"-_ ? -'''_ _::-" _" °71 Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 23) I. Set the stitc[...]
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Page 32
• Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector I Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Zigzag foot Stitch Iength 12 to 24 I The Stitch and Its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project. Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the raw corner of your seam. If [...]
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Page 33
• Three-Step Zigzag (Model 11551 only) Set the Machine St{tch selector Stitch length Blue Zone'=if'to 24 Top thread tension control 1 to 4 _1_ Z_gzag foot The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag stitch. It has m[...]
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Page 34
Set the Machine Stitch selector t, i 2[_ 4 Stitch length _ Blue Zone 2 TOp thread tension /'?-/.._ e_ hole guide foot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial. 1. For less density, turn t[...]
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Page 35
4. a. Set the stitch selector at_. b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing atthe right stitch. 5. a. Set the stitch serector at [_3. b. Sew untilyou reach the back of the buttonhole. c. Stop sewing atthe right stitch. 6. a. Set the stitch selector at =_. b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch. 7, Remove the fabric and cut the hole[...]
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Page 36
Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Ztpper foo_ Stitch length 12 rend of opening Top side of fabric 1/8") Top edge of fabric ,/ Fabric Preparation: To Sew: Put the top sides of the fabric to- 1. gether and sew to the end of the zip- per opening. Use the reverse to lock 2. the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with [...]
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Page 37
8. Open thezipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn 9, Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side Up. the rest of the seam. INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING _- INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as shown, Follow the zipper manuf[...]
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Page 38
Set the Machine Stitch selector I Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Zigzag foot Stitch length 1 1 cm (3/8") With the stitch length at "6", sew straight stitching lines 3/8" (1 cm) apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly. Secure the threads at[...]
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Page 39
PROBLEM Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. I mproper th reading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser foot. Upp[...]
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Page 40
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread Breaking Bobbin Thread Fabric not Moving Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Incorrect size needle. Certain knits and synthetics. Bent or blunt needle, Incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tens[...]
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Page 41
'! 't I I I I I I _-I ',=', • J 1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. 2. 3, Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it. Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise. To insure that your machine operate[...]
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Page 42
• Clean the Shuttle Race This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area about every three months. Center pin of the shuttle case To Clean the Shuttle Area: Shuttle driver _'_,_ * '// -'_'£ Shuttle Leve "_ S.u. ,o.oee k po,nto7 Cover F To Replace Shuttle Assembly: 1. R[...]
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Page 43
Oil the machine in all areas shown on the next two pages at }east once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. O[...]
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Page 44
i f.- Oil the Underside x ....... ............................. :. _ <:_ ..... "._._ _-_ : Oil the underside at least once a year. Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers. 0il points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B) and (C) as shown. J I T i ! f 42 i ! f i[...]
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Page 45
PARTS LIST 1 2 3 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 21 22 16 17 18 19 20 S 23 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION : 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCR IPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, [...]
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Page 46
INDEX A Appliqueing ...................... 27 B Bar tacking ....... " ............. 20, 27 Base ............................ 2 Basic zigzag .................... 20, 25 Bobbin .................... !1, t3,43 Bobbin case ............... 11, 13, 40, 43 Bobbin thread .................. 15_16 Bobbin winding ................. 11_12 Buttonhole .......[...]
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Page 47
_) WARRANTY __& FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head. FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two years from the date of purchase,[...]
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Page 48
S-385 SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewi[...]