Pfaff 339 manuel d'utilisation

CPFAFFD 339 G.M. PFAFF AG. WERK KARLSRUHE-DURLACH[...]

- — FOREI1ORD At last you are the owner of this modern light metal Automatic portable sewing machine of advanced functional styling and softly blended colours. It will serve you for all normal sewing and embroidery work that becomes necessary in your home. You will especially appreciate that with this sewing machine you can also darn stockings an[...]

Table of Contents This is Your Sewing Machine . Accessories 1. Preparing to Sew Engaging and disengaging the sewing mechanism Motor drive and folding table Needle and thread Exchanging the sewing foot Removing and replacing bobbin and bobbin case Winding the bobbin Upper threading, picking up bobbin thread 2. Sewing — Setting the Machine Fundamen[...]

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_- This is Your Sewing Machine 1 Thread take-up lever 19 Feed dog 2 Thread guides 20 Sewing foot 3 Bobbin winder tension 21 Sewing foot fastening screw 4 Spool pins 22 Needle clamp 5 Cam control 23 Regulator spring 6 Automatic device 24 Presser bar lifter 7 Top cover (on back of machine) 8 Machine arm 9 Bobbin winder 25 Front cover with sewlight 10[...]

Iotor Drire The voltage indicated on the motor plate must be the same as that of your power-line (f. I. 220 volts). You will find the motor plate on the underside of the bottom plate. Tilt the machine carefully to the bock. Connect the three-pronged plug 1 to the socket 2 on the back of the machine and plug the line cord 3 into the wall socket. Se,[...]

Folding Table and Table Extension For all normal sewing work and fancy stitching you can raise the folding table to obtain a larger working area to put the material on. All you have to do is lift up the table a little and pull it all the way to the left until its right part is on a level with the free arm. Then let it snap into the groove under the[...]

p Inserti. the Needle The machine requir 5 need/es system 130 R. Need/es of that system are avail able at your sewing machine dealer. Bring the thread takeup /ever to its highest position and /oosen c/amp screw 5 all the Way. Now take the needle between thumb and forefinger of your /eft hand, and with its flat side to the back and its /ong groove f[...]

Exchanging the Sewing Foot fabric, ing results. on For medium-weight linen and cotton fabrics you should start with thread No. 60 and a needle No. 80. When working very fine or very thick material first try out on a piece of remnant whether you have chosen the correct needle and thread sze. To replace the sewing foot place its cut- As bobbin thread[...]

h ILdh. 49w.e . v , • N Needle and Thread Table (metric system) Example: You want to work on underwear. On a — — C0 O C C OO the line saying “under- g a o a C G) -o wear” you go to the right — — ° N >- >- a, C C C, ) and find thread size 80 “— ° a a, and above the kind C - OT c C C0 C0 — thread to use. L.ast column C 0 0[...]

Removing the Bobbin Case Bring thread take-up ever to its highest position and swing out to the left the cover at the end of the free arm. With thumb and forefinger of your right hand hold the case by its lctch 6. You can now take the bobbin case with the bobbin out to the front. When releasing the latch, the bobbin will fall out. L:zEr 13[...]

Winding the llobbin Disengage the sewing mechanism as described on page 7. Now place the spool on the right-hand spool pin, pass the thread through the back thread guide,once clockwise around the tension 7 and to the bobbin on the bobbin winder pin. The small wire on the pin must go into the slot on the underside of the bobbin. Wind the thread ends[...]

Replacing the Loaded Bobbin 1) Place the bobbin into the bobbin case so that the thread unwinds from top towards you .-m (upper photo). 2) Hold the bobbin in the bobbin case arid pass the thread through the t 1 ’recding slot (lower photo left) 3) Draw the thread along and beneath the tension spring and out through the opening in the case. Leave t[...]

Bring the thread take-up lever again to its highest position and with thumb and forefinger ho!d the case by its open latch 9 and, with the cut-out on top, slide it onto stud 10. It is best to hold also the loose thread end to prevent it from getting caught between bobbin case and hook. Now let go of the latch and press the bobbin case firmly agains[...]

Place the spool onto the spool pin and pass the thread through the slot in thread guide 11, across the arm of the mcchine to the front, then by the right edge of thread guide 12 and up under its hook through the upper hole and down through the lower hole. Now pass it down and clockwise between tension discs of the tension assembly 13, then up and f[...]

Picking up Bobbin Thread With your left hand hold the end of the upper thread, leaving it a little slack between hand and needle. Then turn the handwheel towards you to allow the thread take-up lever and the needle to travel down once and up again to the highest point. The bobbin thread will thus be drawn up in a loop through the needle plate. Now [...]

Fundamentals 2. Sewing - Setting the Machine o When threaded, the machine must never be set in motion without a piece of fabric underneath the sew ing foot. Also remember to tower the foot only with fabric under it as otherwise the foot and the teeth of the feed dog might be damaged. • The machine moves the material all by itself. You should mere[...]

When starting to sew with the straight stitch, you should follow the instructions given on pages 21 and 22. Make sure par ticularly that you sew at a medium stitch length (setting of stitch length regulator as pictured on page 21) and that the cam control is on straight stitch as pictured on page 23. Re,novin the Work Place the fabric between sewin[...]

Setting the Stitch Length You set the stitch length by the stitch length regulator 17. Turn the screw 18 to the left and set the stitch length as you like it. The shortest stitch is sewn when the regulating lever is in centre position; the longest stitch is a good 3/16” with the lever either in its highest or lowest position. For forward sewing t[...]

RI g h t: Scale 22 for adjusting zigzag width with figures 0—4 and adjustment lever 23 which, for straight stitching, must be set on 0 and for zigzag stit ching on one of the other numbers marked on the scale. The largest zig zag width is 5,32”. Be ow : Lock disc 24 for limiting zig zag w:dth with figures 0—4 and a but tonhole symbol detaiis [...]

You con block the zigzag lever 23 on 0 for straight stitching by tur ning the lock disc 24 also on 0. To limit the width c the zigzag stitch you set the lock disc 24 and the lever 23 on equal numbers. The lever can then only be moved between 0 and the number selected. When you have much straight stitching to do ci one time, set the cam control cert[...]

Regulating the Thread Tensions After sewing a few inches, examine the stitch ing on both sides of the fabric. The tensions are set correctly if upper and bobbin thread lock in the centre of the cloth. If thin material puckers, both tensions are set too tight. Sketch I shows what a neat seam will look like when tensions are correctly set. Ii Upper t[...]

Regulating the Upper Tension Turning to the right Tension in crecses. Turning to the left Tension de creases. The markings on the tension unit scale will help you remember the correct set ting for nomci sewing whenever you have to change the tension temporarily for special material. Regulating the Bobbin Case Tension Once it is set correctly, the b[...]

a. Regulating the Pressure on the Sewing Fool There should be just enough pressure on the sewing foot to allow the fabric to move along easy. It is rarely necessary to change the pressure. The pressure is strongest when the inner pin is all the way down, but this strong pressure is seldom required and should be used only for extremely thick and sti[...]

3. Tips for Straight Stitching Regular Straight Stitch Work Edge Stitching Quilting Felling Hemming Ruffling and Sewing on Flounces in one Operation Pearl Yarn Embroidery 32 Darning Linen Darning Fine Nylon Stockings Darning Woolen Socks . Other Darning Work 36 Hemstitching with Hem-Twin Needle . 37 Upon request we supply free of charge a special l[...]

Regular Straight Stitching Foot No. 847496 will serve you for sewing F along edges at a distance of half the width of the foot. Edge StLtch:ng a) with edge stitcher 847602 and guide This foot is used with guide for making wider hems and maintaining an even line of stitching. After setting the guide, firmly tighten the clamp screw. The right edge of[...]

b) with flat guide 847484 and thumb screw 183090, standard sewing foot 847495 or straight stitch sewing foot 847496. This guide, too, is used for making wider hems and for maintaining an even line of stitching from the edge of the material. It is particularly suitable for heavy texture materials. Attach the guide by placing the broad edge to the le[...]

Now insert into the holder Make your first row of stitches, then move the ma- the straight portion of the terial to the right to give the desired spacing be guide, pushing it through the tween the first and second stitch row. Now place holes of the holder from the rounded part of the guide on the first stitch row right to left, and tighten and tigh[...]

i Fold over to the wrong side the edge of the fabric, making a fold about 1/8” wide. Insert a pin at the commencement of the material and with it draw the edce of the material into the curl of the hemmer, where it is automatically turned under twice. Start to sew carefully. Allow the material to feed into the hemmer freely without, however, overf[...]

Now, as you start sewing and same results by placing the curtain and the flounce gathering simultaneausly, let wrong side up. Instead of using the straight stitch the flounce run alonq with the you can also sew with the zigzag stitch, size 2—4, curtain at about 3/8” from the for ruffling and sewing on, in one operation. edge of it. If you want [...]

Stretch the part to be darned over the hoop, and place the work flat on the bedplate under the needle. Only now draw the under thread up (see page 18) and lower the presser bar lifter. Work the machine at an even rythm and move the hoop steadily to and fro, laying the stitch lines c!cse!y and parallel across the hole. As this is done, leave the mat[...]

Pull the stocking over the free arm ond bring the damaged part under the needle. Now place the plastic darning hoop from right under the damaged part of the stock ing and stretch this area by putting the tension ring down into the darning hoop from above (damaged area in the centre of the hoop). Now lower the presser bar lifter to en gage the upper[...]

Darning with Needle Plate Coaer Darning Woolen Socks and Hopper Foot If you prefer darning linen and fine stock ings with the needle plate cover 847640, your dealer will be glad to supply it to you. The needle plate cover is placed onto the machine just as the hole embroidery plate (pictured on page 54). Of course, the use of this cover requires th[...]

zigzag stitch of 1/32” (scale marking 1) to fasten the meshes. (See page 22 for ,,Sett ing the Zigzag Width), Now pass the darning wool from back to front through the guide slot on the left back edge of the darning foot and place it right into the oval mouth of the foot. Set the zigzag lever on 4. Now, on the front end of the hole, start darning [...]

Further Darning Technique8 The free arm is also perfect for darning all tubular clothing. Use again machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. Proceed in the same way as described for darning fine stockings. Here, too, you may use the darning hoop, the needle plate cover, or the Jura hopper foot II. Whatever you darn, always remember that the st[...]

Refer to page 10 for how to insert the needle. Threading the two needles is done in the same way as described on page 59. Detach the sewing foot. (Lower the folding table if raised.) Pass the filler thread through the cut-out at the front edge of the needle plate and, with the help of the threader, pull it up through the guide slot located in front[...]

4. Tips for Zigzag Stitching and Fashion Stitches Page Ordinary zigzag stitching 40 Overcasting, overedging 40 Edge joining 41 Sewing on lace 42 Shell edging 43 Roll hems 43 Buttonholes 44 Sewing on buttons 46 Blindstitching 46 Automatic fashion stitches . . . . 48—51 Twin needle fashion stitches 49 Manual fashion stitches 52 Satin stitch 53 Cord[...]

Ordinary Zigzag Stiteliing Standard sewing foot 847495 The machine will sew zigzag stitches up to approxima tely 5/32” wide and about 3/16” long. The settings are made with the zigzag lever and the stitch length regu lator. Overcasting, Overedging Standard sewing foot 847495 We recommend you to use machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. [...]

about 1/32” from the edge. Trim close to the line of stitching and finally oversew the material on the right side with zigzag stitches 1/16” to 1/8” wide (scale mark ing 2—3) and 1/32” long. Longstripsofmaterialcanbeoverseamedcon veniently with the edge joiner 847505. The edge of the fabric must be inserted into the left slot of the foot.[...]

Lace of curved or sharp-cornered design must first be tacked to the material by hand with small stitches before sewing down. A stronger join between fabric and lace is obtained if you sew down the lace with small zigzag stitches (scale marking 1—1.5), then trim away the surplus material on the underside and finally oversew the first line of stitc[...]

Shell Edging Stitch width: 3. Stitch ength: medium. Insert the material (fine texture materials) into the roll hemmer as with hemmer 847552 (see page 31 “Hem ing”)- The zigzag stitch encircles the hem, giving a good effect especially when thread of contrasting colour is used. Shell edger 847546 Stitch width: 4. Stitch length: long. Upper and bo[...]

Butlonlaoles Zigzag width: 2 and 4. Stitch length: almost 0 (see Universal sewing foot 847580 edfe osition: left. Lock disc 24 all the way to the Stand a) Buttonholes with gimp left to indicate buttonhole symbol (see page 22), which thread provides a partial stop at 2 to simplify subsequent Place Upper and bobbin thread: settings. edge machine embr[...]

operations are shown in heavy p H n t) In these sketches the stitches in tentionally are not laid closely together. Actual ly, of course, there must be no spacing between the stitches as shows the picture of the finished buttonhole. The bars, too, be come narrower by holding the material firmly, laying stitches almost one over the other. E: Make th[...]

Sewing on Buttons Standard sewing foot 847495, universal sewing foot 847580 or button foot 847500 (photo) Drop the feed dog by flicking lever 14 (pictured on page 4) to the left .._J. Place the button on the cloth, lower the presser bar lifter and let the needle pass through the left hole of the button. Stitch 8 or 10 times from hole to hole. Now m[...]

Blind Stitch Guide 847830 Method of working: 1) When working with light-weight material, fold the raw edges approximately 3/16” over to the left side. With heavier goods, such as Jersey or woolen goods generally, the raw edne must first be overcast or stoycci before it is Folded over and tacked (see “Overcasting raw edges” on page 40). 2) Now[...]

Automatic Fashion Stitching Universal sewing foot 847580 Upper thread: mercerized cotton or sew ing silk. First open cover 20 of the Automatic de vice (pictured on page 22) and you will clearly see the double pattern cam moun ted on stud 27. Rotate the cam control to the left until it indicates “2”, The machine will now sew the pattern clearly [...]

Changing the Double Pattern C0m8 You wW be able to change the cams only after you have set the cam control 21 on zigzag (as pictured on page 39 cc curve secrc symbol. The cam can now be easily crc’vr, cf r)e stud. Ir is just as easy to slip another cam ecc on. Make sure that the collar of the cam — or the 2 — is facing you when the cam is mou[...]

I I 1 1 C Se S to PJac edo Ove w tf cbE fT rioT. I’ n fl C The patterns ilTustrated here represent oniy some of the many fa shion stitches your ma chine will autornatjcaj ly sew.[...]

By using a twin needle and by sewing with two threads of con- frosting colours simul taneously, the scope of the machine is further increased for particu lars see page 49 Fo shion Stitching with the Twin Needle 51[...]

Universal sewing foot 847580; cam control on zigzag; up per and bobbin thread: machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. 8 9 f Manual Fashion Stitches PatternNo. 1 1213 I I 5(6 I 8 9 Stitch length C( 1/64” almost ci 1 “ 1I’64” (almost ci almost 0 1/35” Needle Position centre left or right see below see below centre Zickzog Width see b[...]

Satin Stitch. For upper and bobbin thread use machine embroi dery and darning cotton No. 50. The stitches must be laid close together without visible gaps; it is, therefore, essential to set the stitch length almost to 0 (see also page 21). Upper and bobbin thread: machine embroidery and darning cotton No. 50. Use cotton gimp. Upper tension: normal[...]

than for normal sewing. Stitch length: almost 0. Now oversew the zigzag stitches along the edge of the appliqué. When using a gimp thread (as with “Cording”), the zigzag width should be 2; without gimp thread, employ zigzag width 3. Hole Embroidery Without sewing foot, with embroidery hoop, with hole embroidery plate 847645 (for 5/32” diamet[...]

j Upper and bobbin thread: machine em broidery and darning cotton No. 50. Zig zag width: 2. Needle position: left. Detach the sewing foot and lower the feed dog. Place the hole embroidery plate onto the needle plate from the front in such a way that its spring tongue will go into the corresponding cut-out provided at the front edge of the needle pl[...]

Patchi:ig Normal sewing foot 847495 When you have to repair large damaged areas, cut the patch square or rectangular as required to cover the hole or worn area. See to it that the threads of the patch are parallel to those of the material to be re paired. When working with tricot sew down the edges with the elastic curve seam, with other material u[...]

. Piping rhe piping attachment is available upon equest and against reasonable extra :hcrge. It comprises: piping head 847650 machine needles system 1844 5 needles Fl left-hand needle 5 needles Fr riah-hand needle icot 87 665 with one narrow groove width of groove 1/16”) piping foot 847 667 with five medium-wide Drooves (width of groove 3/32”) [...]

Setting the Distance between Needles The piping head has markings for adjusting to different needle spacings: The lower parts can be adjusted after the two screws on the back of the clamp have been slackened off (right-hand photo). Narrow Piping Medium-wide Piping Wide Piping with piping foot 847 665 with piping foot 847 667 with piping foot 847 66[...]

Threading Place a spool of thread onto each of the two spool pins. Pass both threads together as usual through the two thread guides, then separately around the upper tension cne thread on each side of the centre disc; and through the holes of the thread tche-up lever and again together through the next thread guide. Now pass one thread each throug[...]

Raked Piping When working with thin delicate material we recommend you to use a gimp thread (cotton, size suiting the fabric to be sewn). You should also use a aimp thread when sewina dium-wide piping in fairly thick fabric. (Wide piping in thick fabric is done without gimp thread.) Sewing with a gimp thread requires a needle plate with a guide slo[...]

When making a s h a r p Piping with. Ordinary Twin Needles corner, you should turn Instead of the piping head 847650 you may also use the work only half way in ordinary twin needles of system 130 R for piping. the new direction, lower These twin needles are inserted into the normal needle the foot and make one clamp as described on page 10. They ar[...]

6. Maintenance Oiling and Cleaning the Machine is essential for smooth, trouble-free ope- You should make it a rule to oil the bear- ration and long machine life. ings of all working parts regularly; oiling intervals depend on how often you use Use only approved sewing machine oil the machine. available at your dealer. As lint and thread ends settl[...]

It is natural that most of the lint and thread ends settle down in the hook area and in the feed assembly, causing the machine to run noisier. Take out the bob bin case or, respectively, unscrew the needle plate to do the necessary cleaning. The hook of your machine is so designed that it will not cause trouble even if the machine is improperly ope[...]

Oiling points in the front part of the arm are accessible after opening the sewlight cover. Before taking off the top cover open always cover 20 of the Automatic de vice see page 22). Take care that you will not damage the bobbin winder as you take off the top cover. Make sure that there will never be any oil on the driving be’ts and on the bobbi[...]

In the photos the oiling points are marked by circles. Of the two oiling points for the hook one is located in the needle plate, the other next to the needle plate behind the sewing foot. Remember them too when oiling the machine. When thoroughly cleaning the machine (if necessary also before first using t and after it hcs not been used for any len[...]

Motor-drive The machine has a belted motor-drive. The belt should never be too tight nor too slack to ensure smooth troublefree action. There should normaly be just a slight give. As the tightness of the belt may vary after some time, you should once in a while take off the ventilation plate 31 on the right- hand side of the machine by loosening th[...]

Suppression: The motor has a suppression circuit. n p u t : Motor with sewlight about 7 Watts, maximum. e N i n g S p e e d Approximately 1300 stitches p/rn. Fxehan ging the Sewligh t Bulb Exchanging the sewlight bulb (15 W) is as simple as this: Pull out wall plug, open sewlight cover, slightly press the bulb up wards, turn it to the left and draw[...]

7. Cause and Remedy of Faults Remember: Many machine troubles are caused by non-observance of these instructions. In many cases faulty working of your ma dune can be remedied merely by c!eaning and ciIng. The niaclaine works Iieat’ilv: 1. Thread ends are caught up in the hook race — oil the hook, turn the hand- wheel and the hook back and forth[...]

- H The upper thread breaks: 6. The upper tension is too strong — loo sen it (see page 25). 1. The needle is bent or inaccurately in serted—replace the needle (see page 7. The eye of the needle has a cutting edge — replace the needle. 2. Knotty, inferior quality thread is being 8. The bobbin case has a rough spot cut- used — use a better qu[...]

— — — — — The bobbin thread breaks: The machine skips stitches: 1. Knotty, inferior thread is being used — 1. The needle is not inserted all the way use a better quality, up in the needle clamp — correct this (see page 10). 2. The bobbin thread tDnsion is too strong — loosen it (see page 25). 2. The needle is bent or blunt replace t[...]

6. A wrong type of needle is being used — obtain the correct needle system 130 R from your dealer. 7. The hook point is damaged — consult your dealer. 8. A wrong sewing foot has been used — as far as possible the normal sewing foot 847495 should be used. (For spe cial sewing work, as corners of shirt collars, ask for special sewing feet by su[...]

Unsatisfactory feed of the The material puckers: ii: n terial: 1. Lint and thread ends in the feed as- 1. Both thread tensions are set too strong sembly are impeding the smooth move- — loosen both upper and bobbin thread ment of the feed dog — remove the tension see page 25:. needle plate and thoroughly clean the feed assembly. 2. The sewing fo[...]

Uneven stitching 1. The thread is uneven or too thick — 5, The bobbin has been replaced impro change the thread. perly — check the position of the bob bin in the bobbin case following in 2. Tne tension is wrong — adjust it (see structions on pages 15 and 16. pages 24 and 25;. 3. Upper and bobbin thread do not un wind evenly because there is d[...]